Author Archives: Dolores Proubasta

Black Dog (And CAT) Bias – Last Adopted, First Euthanized

posted March 15th, 2011 by

BY DOLORES PROUBASTA 

DADS (DIME A DOZEn) and BBDs (big black dogs) are labels for black dogs at municipal animal shelters in America. And these dogs often pay the ultimate price for their coat color.

They are routinely passed over for adoption in favor of other color-coated dogs, which is why they are the first ones to be “pulled out” for euthanasia when there is no room for new arrivals with better chances.

Older black dogs are sometimes killed as soon as they exit the animal control truck, because of the attitude “why even try.” Black cats and kittens fare no better due to superstition and lower visibility as they hide in the back of cages. Visit your local shelter with an eye out for black dogs and cats and you will understand. Even cute black puppies don’t sell well by retailers or breeders.

This is nothing new. Even Celts, Vikings, and Romans linked black dogs with bad omens and demonic incarnation. Primitive minds in today’s world still do.

Black dogs and cats which languish at rescue shelters are sought for adoption before Halloween by those practicing witchcraft and associated superstitions and blood sacrifices. Reputable rescue organizations prohibit adoption of solid black, solid white and black/white cats and dogs during the Halloween season.

British Islanders believe eerie black dogs haunt castles and graveyards, while Central and South America are rich in negative “perro negro” legends. Superstition and fear may explain the curious moniker “black dog” for depression and drug induced hallucinations.

Because domestic animals reflect human preferences, the idea that dark-colored dogs are more effective deterrents to enemies was not lost on those who selectively bred black from wolf grey. Over time and breeding, black became the “default” color for domestic dogs.

However, black is not evident in the Canidae family – wild dogs such as Dingo, Culpeo, Dhole, Bush Dog or wolves, jackals, foxes or coyotes. Only the endangered African Wild Dog or Painted Dog has splotches of black.

Part of the reproductive success of darker dogs is that they are more resistant to the UV spectrum and therefore less susceptible to skin malignancies. While they are more prone to heat exhaustion, cancer claims fewer lives and that favors their genetic lineage.

The fact that black dogs appear more forbidding is also an advantage in the survival game. Even sheep are quicker to react to black and dark-colored stock dogs than to lighter coat colors.

Many people, however, do admire the elegant, slick, intense good looks of darkcoated breeds and their mixes. Dog behaviorists, veterinarians, responsible breeders, and human companions agree there is no link between the color of an animal’s coat and undesirable character traits.

Black dog bias, low adoption rate and high euthanasia in municipal shelters is hard to prove with numbers because animal control shelters and humane organizations do not keep data on size, breed and color of dogs euthanized or adopted. Empirical data, however, indicate that more black animals wait longer to be adopted and run out of allotted time in city shelters.

Discussions are beginning about how to encourage adoption and create appealing environments that show off dark-coated dogs, cats, and other small animals such as rabbits.

“Not only black, but dark brown, grey, brindle or merle dogs are also long-stay residents at shelters,” says Jess Chappell, a volunteer photographer at the Royal SPCA in York, UK. “They simply just don’t stand out in poorly lit facilities, and so they are less noticeable or attractive. It would certainly be interesting to compare adoption rates in shelters with good and with bad kennel lighting!”

Ambient lighting is one of several image enhancements that humane societies and animal control departments can provide. Other solutions are suggested at the various websites in the information list.

Essentially it all boils down to exposure with pizzazz: “Black Coat Gala,” “Hair O’ the Black Dog Happy Hour,” “Black CatWalk Night,” “Shelter-Black-is-Beautiful Pageant,” are some of the imaginative fundraising and adoption event themes shining the light on black dogs.

A friend, owner of a black dog, acknowledged recently that he did not know about black-dog bias. Eddie’s beloved Labrador retriever, Danner, is his first black dog. “Now that you mention bias,” he said, “I realize that while I can’t clone Danner, because of him there is no question that the next dog I adopt will be black. That’s my bias.”

Reverse bias for BBDs would be welcome.

 

Teach the Children

posted November 15th, 2010 by

Story by Dolores Probasta

TWIN TODDLERS on a stroller see a dog; one recoils and cries while the other reaches out and giggles. Everything being equal, one is a born animal lover and the other is not. Through their formative years, the twins will become entrenched in their respective innate tendencies or adapt according to the examples they observe.

Parents, relatives, friends, and teachers may partially influence, unintentionally in most cases, the children’s developing attitudes toward animals. Mind-shaping events are usually unremarkable and can take place anywhere. A stranger helping a turtle across the road or rescuing an injured stray are behaviors a child observes in everyday life and may commit to memory; just as sure as he remembers opposite behaviors, like big brother running over a cat intentionally. Even at a distance, we can provide positive examples that, we can only hope, will override (or put in question) the negative attitudes toward animals children see everywhere – often at home.

Much can be taught just walking one’s own dog. When children are in sight, even if they seem to be paying no attention, do all the right things: pet your dog, give her a drink of water, say things like “good girl!” and look pleased to be with your companion animal. Smile, because the deductive logic to even the youngest child is: person with pet happy; pets good.

Use common sense in the manner you address a child and whether it is prudent to do so under the circumstances, but opportunities pop up everywhere to influence children favorably toward animals. “What a beautiful dog! How old is she?” you ask a child playing in his front yard with a dog nearby. Either the child will be flattered by your interest, which means he already appreciates his pet, or at least he’ll realize that other people see beauty in the dog he takes for granted. Perhaps imperceptibly, the dog’s stock has gone up in the eyes of the child.

A recent example: A four year old girl was playing at a fountain in the park. “Are you through?” I asked after waiting for a while. “Astra is thirsty; let me show you something neat.” She moved aside keeping a wary eye on my dog as I started filling a plastic bag with water. “Now comes the best part,” I said enthusiastically lowering the bag to the floor, “Drink, Astra!” which, to my surprise, the girl repeated. While the dog lapped water the girl came nearer. I explained that dogs also get thirsty and that we have to give them fresh water often. She nodded. A seed of knowledge was planted.

Be receptive to children who show interest in your dog. (1) Answer their questions, (2) convey positive attitudes through small talk: “Did you know that dogs are our best friends?” “Have you visited the animal shelter?” etc., and (3) smile.

If a child hesitates to approach or even recoils from your dog, smile and say, “Don’t be afraid; dogs are good.” With an older child, ask why he is afraid and provide facts that may help sort out his feelings – facts no one else may provide otherwise. Try to encourage the shy or scared child to come closer to your dog (if safe) or at least mention the dos and don’ts of approaching a dog – again, you may be the only person to teach a youngster safety rules like “Never scream, stare, run away…”. Be encouraging. If your dog is good-natured, every step a child dares to take to come closer builds confidence and may, in fact, help him or her avoid being bit in the future.

If the dog is unaccustomed to children, and one wants to pet him, let the kid come as close as it’s safe and make an excuse like “Gengis [always use the pet's name to personalize him] is not feeling well today, but maybe next time you can pet him?” Smile. Don’t ever discourage a child who is animal friendly nor give him a reason to change his mind.

At the petting zoo, the state fair, the park … animals and children come in contact. When parents fail to teach children properly, petting may turn into hitting. To allow a child to mistreat an animal is a disservice to both; it is everyone’s responsibility to immediately protect the animal, and call the parents’ attention to the incident. If the child appears to be alone or with other youngsters, say a firm “No!” and explain calmly why this behavior is unacceptable. Talk to the parents if they show up – be polite but firm. Animal cruelty is a precursor to violence toward people and a warning sign of certain psychopathologies; law and order are well aware of this fact.

By the same token, when a child is being kind to animals, a smile of approval or a word of praise from you is deserved recognition he or she may not receive otherwise.

When talking to the children of neigh- bors, friends, and relatives, consider animal topics; ask, for instance, what their favorite animal is and why, and you can reinforce their feelings or, if necessary, correct misconceptions. Even in short exchanges, the perception that adults talk nicely about animals enhances their value.

Fibbing about animal “encounters” is part and parcel of growing up. Children under the age of seven often claim that an animal has either scratched or bitten them (usually when no one was watching). If there is no blood, it’s simply a childish boast, a call for attention, or a misconception … which, nonetheless, may cost an innocent animal a trip to the shelter or worse. If there is no wound, there is no reason to believe the child, but still you should ask, “Well, since you are not hurt, what do you think we should do?” In most cases the child will be vague or recant coyly. The alarm should be sounded to all concerned when a child insists on blaming the animal and, worse, if he demands “punishment.”

Give children gifts that enhance or suggest the bond between people and animals, but animals themselves should never be the gift, because the message “easy come, easy go” is implied. A child who wants a pet should be involved in the adoption process and be taught, to the extent of his mental capacity, the responsibilities attached. Discourage parents from surprising the kid for the holidays or any other occasion. Instead, suggest they make it a family project: Look at books or web sites about pets, go together to the shelter, discuss the implications … and in the process it may become crystal clear that the child couldn’t care less.

Pets rarely live up to the “entertainment” value children expect. This, too, presents a teaching opportunity. As a visitor, ask children to show you their pets, especially those in cages. If well cared for, ask questions and praise them and their pet!

More often than not, however, birds, fish, amphibians, reptiles, and small mammals are banished to a catch all room or to the garage once the novelty wears off. If conditions indicate neglect, don’t be shy about making suggestions to the child and the parents on how to improve the quality of life of the pet. When conditions are deplorable, however, don’t waste time recommending changes that will never happen; just ask whether they would like to give (or sell) you the animal. You can then contact the humane society to find a better home. If your personal involvement is out of the question, report the case to the authorities.

Children’s behavior toward animals reveals much about their character; it has to be monitored, encouraged or discouraged, and guided toward higher levels. It cannot be ignored, as it often is at home and school. The influence of outsiders is not insignificant, because even the smallest kindness (or unkindness) is stored. It is in the interest of children to accumulate good examples to live by. The welfare of tomorrow’s animals hangs also in the balance.

A Pet in OUR House?

posted October 15th, 2010 by

BY DOLORES PROUBASTA

When people who live together
disagree about issues concerning household pets, the alarm is sounded for those who have no voice in the matter. All it takes is for one person to complain about allergies, or start a pet defamation campaign for barking, shedding, or any perceived problem. The complainer can be persistent, deaf to solutions, and wear the housemates out. Off to the shelter goes Lucky, or to the mystery “farm” the complainer has found (but no one else can) where the pet will be free to roam and, possibly, be hit by the first truck to come down the nearby interstate. In any case, the end of Lucky restores peace in the household, until another pet arrives.

Animals come to live in plural households by (1) acquisition — e.g., a family adopts a pet, a member of the household inherits Aunt Celia’s African Gray, house partners take in the cat the neighbors abandoned, and so on; or (2) blending – people move in together bringing their respective companion animals to the mix. In either case, everyone concerned, including children (for educational reasons), should sit down to a realistic discussion of expectations and consequences before committing to a new pet. In the process it will become evident that either:

1) There is general reluctance to take on responsibilities; the pet is considered a toy for the children but not much more; one or more people are “afraid” or “allergic” or “don’t like animals;” the head of household won’t allow a cat indoors … Clearly the idea must be dropped before an animal suffers the consequences.

2) Only one adult is in favor and capable of assuming pet-related responsibilities. This individual needs to realize that he or she is entering a single-owner situation, with all its burdens. Those unwilling to contribute to the pet’s well-being now may never change their mind … while expecting equal say. Is the principal caregiver willing to accept this duality; is it fair?

3) Adult household members accept financial and labor responsibilities. They understand the drawbacks of pet ownership and still look forward to the new “family” member. In this ideal setting any issues that arise – as in Lulu-atemy- Manolo-Blahnik-pumps — can be resolved with behavior modification (keep the darned shoes in the closet!), compromise, and cooperation.

In households with pre-existing pets, their temperament must be considered and proper introductions preplanned. Seek advice from your veterinarian and acquaintances with multiple pets. Give animals time to adapt to the new environment and reward them every time they approach each other in peace. Don’t overreact to the occasional tiff. The main obstacle to pets’ mutual acceptance is anxious, overbearing, or impatient people looking on!

“But wait!” says you, “Most people start their own brood with less consideration than the purchase of the next SUV!” True, and two wrongs don’t make a right. The law is less equivocal about neglecting children than about outright abuse of animals denied equivalent rights. The following points should be considered to avoid doomed situations:

Show of hands: In favor of and against a pet.
50-50 is not a good start for a pet in a twopeople household. If opposition is grounded on irresponsibility of the pet proponent, it may be necessary to bring in third parties to make the case. If a responsible pet proponent is denied the request frivolously, this sounds like a “people problem.” Neither scenario bodes well for companion animals. Unless … the pet proponent is responsible and takes full charge, and the other party accepts a passive role … and doesn’t scare the pet when they’re alone!

Make a realistic pet budget.
Consider (1) routine veterinary care and occasional emergencies; (2) heartworm preventative medicine, flea/tick treatment, and medication when needed; (3) high-quality food brands which will reduce elimination and help maintain a healthier pet; (4) pet sitter or boarding fees; (5) bathing/grooming, obedience training, and other life enhancements. Be prepared to exceed the basic budget and expect the unexpected like major veterinary emergencies, moving with pet(s) to a new city or country, and other substantial expenses.

Can one household member alone bear the expenses and the chores associated with a pet?
If it takes two (or more) incomes to afford a pet, then the loss of a job, separation, illness, or other eventualities will put the animal at risk. “Can’t afford” and “Change of living situation” are leading excuses for surrendering pets at the shelter. The fact is that when the financial chips are down some people abandon their pets but not their beer, junk food, manicures, and other such necessities. Those who honor their commitment, however, will cut their own expenses in favor of their pet(s).

If the household runs on two or more unblended incomes, create a pet kitty or determine who will pay what directly.
If only one person cares and pays for the pets, he or she should be prepared to (1) keep them in case of a change of living arrangement; and (2) find a stand-by surrogate caregiver (among friends, relatives, or for hire) before the need arises, since other household members can’t or won’t.

Assign specific responsibilities among members of the household (e.g., Table 1) and agree on household rules concerning pets.
Pets cause additional upkeep of both house and yard. Who will potty train and clean after the inevitable accidents, who will scoop up cat litter boxes and dog doo in the yard (daily), wash bedding, wash bowls after meals, bathe, brush, walk, train, play, etc.

Animals in cages and aquariums require daily cleaning and attention because they cannot escape their own litter or the boredom of being forgotten in their small confinement. If a child is given responsibilities, an adult must be at the ready to back him up when he balks at chores once the novelty of a pet is over.

Establish the rules of pet etiquette in advance: Will the dog be allowed on furniture; the cat on counters … will dogs be in crates, in the yard, or inside while people go out … fed before or after people … The list of “rules” gets longer when people are short on tolerance for animals – and this is a warning sign in itself. Animals should not be expected to act like automatons. Reasonable rules everyone is comfortable with make it possible to train pets consistently without giving contradictory commands that set them up for failure.

Couples should agree not to give away, banish to the backyard, confine, or neglect the pet(s) in the event of a baby. If there is any doubt that a child might displace the pet, don’t have one … or the other.
Pregnant women are often warned by the well-meaning and least informed about the dangers of scooping cat litter, dogs biting toddlers, bird diseases, and sundry reasons not to keep pets. Qualified advice from a physician, veterinarian, and especially women who have successfully handled both pets and motherhood should allay such fears.

What to do if faced with the ultimatum “The pet or me!” Does anyone in the household have the mettle to give the deserved answer? Think about it beforehand.
Behavior, finances, and division of labor are the daily issues of shared households. People unwilling to add pets to this difficult equation are wise to recognize that they can’t or don’t want to handle it. It’s those who bring in, tire of, and give up pets with childish disregard for the consequences of their acts that need help. A pet in our house!? Let’s talk about it.

A sample chart of tasks*

  MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN
6 AM walk 4 4 4 4 4 2 3
6 PM walk 2 2 2 2 2 3 2
Scoop yard 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Morning snack 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Wash water & food bowls 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Wash bedding           3  
Brush           2  
Dinner 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

Bark Park (Sat & holidays): 1, 2, 3, and/or 4 Veterinary visits: 1, 2, 3, or 4 as available Obedience class: 2 and 4

*A house with yard, 2 dogs, and 4 adults. Each person’s name or, as in this example, assigned number is written in the box corresponding to task and day. Every household member involved in the care of pets should have a back up in case of travel or illness.

RABIES: Trading Fear for Facts

posted April 15th, 2010 by

By DOLORES PROUBASTA

Rabies remains a fatal disease long after the laws of Eshnunna, an archaeological find near Baghdad, decreed that the owner of a rabid dog owed compensation to the victim’s family. Then, 4,000 years ago, as today rabies is in a category of its own.

We regard the probability of contracting cancer in our lifetimes with cooler detachment than the improbability-in the United States-of being ever nipped by a rabid animal (Table 1). While it is true that rabies has the highest case mortality rate of any infectious disease and that there is no cure after onset of clinical symptoms, the overall facts are not so gloomy. Rabies (1) is easily preventable, (2) the time between exposure and onset of the disease allows time to stop the advancing virus, and (3) the vaccines used, when timely and correctly administered, are uniformly effective.

The same cannot be said about other dread diseases. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) an average of two or three people die of rabies in the US each year, usually for not seeking help soon enough. US patients are often infected abroad. US and Canada, which have rabies surveillance and prevention programs, as well as proven and safe vaccines, are low risk for rabies, as are Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Chile and Uruguay, and much of Europe. In contrast, the annual tally of human rabies deaths worldwide is around 55,000 – 50-60% in India. In Asia, Africa, Central and most of South America, and Eastern Europe rabies is enzootic and a public health concern, worse because vaccines may be hard to obtain or of dubious efficacy.

What exactly is rabies?
Rabies is a viral disease that affects mammals. It is zoonotic, spreading from animals to people – and vice versa, if an infected human were to bite a dog. The virus is generally transmitted through the saliva as a result of a bite. Nonbite exposures are those in which contaminated saliva or neuronal tissue make contact with an open wound, scratch, mucous membrane, or the eye. Not all contact with an infected animal constitutes a rabies “exposure.” Petting or handling, and contact with blood, urine, or feces do not pose risk of infection. Nor does contact with saliva, provided the skin is intact! It is also important to note that the rabies virus is present in the saliva only during the final stages of infection, about the time symptoms appear.

Once introduced into the bloodstream of the new host, the virus is replicated in the muscle cells (not in the bloodstream), passing via the peripheral nervous system toward the central nervous system. At this stage it is disseminated to the allimportant salivary glands that make transmission possible. The virus finally invades the spinal cord and the brain causing acute inflammation and with it the characteristic clinical symptoms.

After exposure, the incubation period in humans is usually several weeks to months, but ranges from days (in severe bites to head or neck) to, in rare cases, a year or more if the wound was superficial.
The advance of the rabies virus can be arrested while it remains in skin and muscle cells, but once it spreads to a neuron it becomes insulated from the immune system and vaccines can’t reach it.

The final stages of infection are:

1. Prodromal stage, 1-3 days characterized by departure from normal habits (e.g., a friendly pet avoiding his people, a wild animal behaving as if tame, a nocturnal animal active in daytime, etc.); also confusion and misbehavior.

2. “Furious” or excitative, 3-4 days of hyperactivity to external stimuli like noise, wind, running water; aggression. This is when dogs tend to rove and bite. As the victim enters the final stage, facial and throat muscles undergo painful spasms, making it impossible to swallow either water (thus the term “hydrophobia,” fear of water) or saliva, causing drooling or frothing of the mouth (the signature symptom, which per se is not symptomatic).

3. Paralytic stage, with loss of coordination (Table 2). The victim finds an isolated place to suffer convulsions, lapse into a coma, and die, generally from respiratory arrest. “Dumb” or paralytic rabies differs in that there is no furious stage. Paralysis, usually of the lower jaw, is the first indication, spreading quickly to the limbs and vital organs resulting in death. The signs of dumb rabies may look like choking. An emphatic word of caution: Rabies symptoms vary from one individual to another and also from one species to another, resembling in all cases those of other diseases or conditions. Impossible though it is to diagnose rabies at a glance, millions of healthy animals have been executed for no more than drooling or biting in self-defense.

Conversely, in situations where rabies is a not-so-remote possibility, say, a choking dog in the streets of Calcutta, it is sad but prudent to leave the animal to his suffering and alert the authorities.

Dogs, cats, or ferrets rarely live beyond 10 days after the onset of signs, which is why they must be quarantined and observed after a bite incident. If the quarantined animal survives for 10 days, rabies is unlikely and almost certainly the virus was not in the saliva at the time of the bite. Everyone can breathe easy and resume normal lives. However, if signs of illness develop during observation, the animal must be euthanized and the head sent for fluorescent antibody testing of brain tissue.

There is less certainty about incubation periods in wild animals. Because an accurate diag nosis of rabies in these cases is only possible in the lab, the procedure in the US requires that (1) exotic pets, (2) wild/domestic hybrids, and (3) wild animals (if caught) who have bitten or scratched a person be euthanized by a veterinarian and the head removed and shipped under refrigeration (not frozen) to a public health laboratory for testing. Bats, if caught, must be sent whole for analysis.

Research has failed so far to produce a reliable live-animal rabies test. The waste of life in these cases is even more tragic in view of the disparity between the large number of animals killed for testing and the miniscule percentage that test positive. Therefore, the development of a reliable live test should be a priority of veterinary and epidemiology researchers.

Organ, tissue, vascular, and corneal transplants have caused human-to-human rabies transmission. In 2004 four US patients contracted clinical rabies and died as a result of a single donor whose death was not recognized as rabies. There have been cases reported in four other countries.

“A dandy excuse” Most warm-blooded animals are susceptible to rabies, but not uniformly so. Rodents (squirrels, mice, gerbils, guinea pigs, hamsters, chipmunks, muskrats, beavers, etc.), lagomorphs (rabbits and hare), marsupials (including the American opossum), and primates (other than humans) are more resistant to rabies than other mammals. Birds are immune.

Terrestrial carnivores most often infected with rabies (known as vector species) in the US are skunks, raccoons, and foxes. Human rabies in the US, however, is mostly bat-related, in some cases without the victim being aware of a bite. There is no reason to panic because 94% of the bats submitted for testing are not rabid, but it is wise to avoid situations where a bat may sneak up on you (Table 3).

Dogs and cats have not been the main reservoir of rabies in the US since the early 1950s. The number of infected farm animals also dropped drastically at that time. And in 1958, for the first time, there were more reports of wildlife rabies than dog rabies. Why? Because as systematic vaccination of pets reduced the incidence of rabies in domestic animals, and as wildlife monitoring became a science, the occurrence of rabies in wild species began to receive attention. It follows that with improved surveillance and diagnosis techniques the rabies reservoir in wildlife was recognized.

Wrongly assuming that sylvan rabies was spreading – instead of finally being noticed – wildlife management resorted to trapping-poisoning shooting. This reckless MO was predictably welcomed by hunters, trappers, ranchers, and their political minions, who found rabies “a dandy excuse” as a journalist wrote, for the elimination of animals who interfered with their interests, or to be able to up the intake of furbearers, or just to target-shoot live “trash” animals for clean family fun.

A rational approach to check the spread of rabies in wildlife is the release of oral vaccination food baits in strategic wilderness areas. As animals eat the baits and become immunized they come to reinforce the population of healthy individuals which are nature’s buffer force between a minority of infected wild animals and humans or domestic animals.

Not curable, preventable

Louis Pasteur and Emile Roux made history in 1885 by using serum made from the dried spinal cord of rabbits injected with the rabies virus to inoculate a boy severely bitten by a rabid dog. Following a regime of 12 shots, the boy survived and the experiment opened the possibility of escaping certain death.

Rabies vaccines induce an active immune response that includes the production of virus neutralizing antibodies. Whether to start a vaccination series or not after a suspected rabies exposure depends on several factors to be discussed between the victim and the attending physician in consultation with local health authorities. Postexposure prophylaxis, as rabies vaccines are often called, is an urgency (not an emergency) and should start as soon as possible.
If observation or testing turn out negative, then prophylaxis is not required. But if the animal is not available and there is the slightest possibility of infection, then prophylaxis is the right choice. Between 20,000 and 40,000 people receive a full series of rabies vaccines every year in the US; 10 to 12 million worldwide.

Postexposure prophylaxis consists of (1) thorough cleansing of the wound with soap and abundant running water, (2) local infiltration of rabies immune globulin, RIG, to bridge the gap until the first vaccine starts producing active immunity, and (3) a 5-dose prophylaxis of intramuscular shots in the shoulder area over a 28-day period. This treatment is uniformly effective when promptly and correctly administered.

Prophylaxis received outside the US can be substandard. The patient should remember the name of the vaccine, its manufacturer, and dates of inoculation, to be able to inform his Stateside physician upon return. Also insist that the vaccine be administered on the shoulder and not the gluteal area, where it may be less effective.
Traveling to enzootic regions of the world presents risks that justify “pre-exposure” prophylaxis.

Even though it doesn’t eliminate the need for further injections after a bite, pre-exposure prophylaxis (1) simplifies prophylaxis after exposure, (2) primes the immune response in case of unrecognized exposure (as in a bat bite) bridging the gap of an unintended delay in medical attention, and (3) provides immunity between exposure and prophylaxis in remote areas where it may not be available.
Pre-exposure prophylaxis is a necessity for individuals who work with rabies virus and rabies diagnostic testing; veterinary personnel, animal control, and wildlife officers where rabies is enzootic; and anyone who handles bats or goes near them, like spelunkers.

Neither pre- nor postexposure rabies vaccines have serious reactions; the most common being headache and local tenderness in the area of injection. Rabies vaccines are so benign that pregnancy is not a contraindication and neither rabies exposure nor prophylaxis are reasons to terminate pregnancy.

Rabies kills, but the number of casualties would be lower if ignorance and apathy were as easy to neutralize as the virus.

BOOK with a mission: Billy’s World

posted October 15th, 2009 by

REVIEW BY DOLORES PROUBASTA

SOME BREEDS OF DOG WERE DEVELOPED for all the wrong reasons. Among these are the so-called bully breeds – not because they are “bullies” but because their ancestors were bred for the spectacle of bull and bear baiting. In spite of their grim original mission, bully dogs have remained affable characters who adore people.

One would think that in view of people’s failure to turn such dogs into mindless killers – short of making them crazy – they would give up. Far from it.

Although enraged at the image of a Michael Vick killing dogs for fun and profit, the notion of dog fighting is turned off with the evening newscast. It is just too unsettling to realize that there is a blood-soaked dog-fighting arena only blocks or, at most, miles away from home, wherever we happen to live, and never mind that it is unlawful in all States of the Union.

Nor did Bill Stauss, a petroleum engineer and author of Billy’s World, plan to go beyond the yard of his gas-well service company in western Oklahoma, to stumble upon a dog fighting operation down the road.

But an escapee of that hellhole, a red American Staffordshire “Pit Bull” Terrier destined to be a champion, found Stauss or, rather, his book persona, Rick Simpson.

Rick takes the pup in and gives him a good southern name: Billy Bob. The breeders want to recover their champion stock to train and fight him. Gradually, Rick awakens to the world of dog fighting which, in defiance of the law, continues unabated in barns, trailers, basements, abandoned buildings, forest clearances, rooftops, and anywhere there is room for two bad men and two good dogs. Rick goes on with his professional and personal life as well he can living in fear he may lose his beloved companion any time. Rick’s friends, relatives, associates, and adversaries are patched into the main story like individual swaths blended into a colorful Oklahoma quilt. Rick eventually takes the offensive: Because he can’t hide and protect his dog indefinitely, he endeavors instead to expose the illegal dog fighting operation. From then on as they say, all hell breaks loose.

A Foreword to the book makes a clarification that cannot be repeated enough: That there is no such breed as a “pit bull.” The term is but a coarse reminder of the pits in which noble dogs of Bulldog and Bull-and-Terrier blood, in addition to other Mastiff descendents, are forced to fight. Regrettably, the “P” word was wedged into the official denomination of one of the popular breeds, the American “Pit” Bull Terrier, which is as docile and eager to please as the other bully breeds; and also as maligned and discriminated against. Even in shelters meant to protect discarded and abused animals, bully breeds are the first ones to be killed.

Bill Stauss’ narrative ushers the reader into the schizophrenic life of fighting dogs and of the people for whom they obediently and frightfully die.

The author wisely omits the more gruesome aspects of the pit to keep readers from closing the book, but without sparing them completely, because Stauss’ self-imposed mission in writing this book is “to shock people into taking action against dog fighting and at the same time change negative perceptions about the breed.” There is much to enjoy about the book besides the mutual devotion betweenman and dog, and the triumph of good over evil. Stauss has a Southern, laid back fireside story-telling style of short sentences. He transits effortlessly from a Rockwell-portrait rural America in one chapter, to the American oil patch with roughneck characters both burly and kind in another, and various other scenarios of his daily life with Billy. The action is supported by the folksy Okie dialogue people use in the back roads Stauss knows inside out after decades of working in the Oklahoma and Texas oil fields.

The characters – and there are not a few in Rick and Billy’s world – are refreshingly straight out of a classic Western, in which good and bad guys are easy to pick -much in the same way a dog sees the world. Not that Billy, while still a pup, could always figure things out – according to the protagonist/author anthropomorphic interpretation. Together, with each other’s help, man and dog grow and set out to do what neither might have done alone.

Billy’s World is meant to remind us that at this very moment there are animal gladiators being forced to kill or be killed-and this is happening all over America. They do it not because they are vicious but because, as Stauss drives at repeatedly, of their unflinching loyalty and desire to please. Others of the same breed, strength, and temperament are playing with children or snuggling up to a human companion. Same noble breed; the only difference is in the people around them.

The end of the book is not the end of the story-not for Bill Stauss. In memory of Billy Bob, by special arrangements with the author, 100% of the profits from the sale of this book will be donated to any approved charitable animal rescue or adoption agency wishing to market the book. If interested go to the “Billy’s World” website at www.billybobbook.com and click on the “Contact the Author” tab.

Billy’s World is a love story told so that other Billy Bobs may live and love.

EMERGENCY: Indoor cat OUT!

posted October 15th, 2009 by

STORY BY DOLORES PROUBASTA

CATS DON’T LIKE TO ROAM; most would rather stay home, on a favorite armchair or window sill looking out, feeling wrongfully imprisoned.

Forced to “enjoy freedom” by guardians blissfully unaware of traffic, poisons, dogs, aggressive toms, pregnancy, neighbors who don’t like cats, and other dangers, a cat will stake his territory, usually very close to home, and fend for himself as well as he can. For entertainment he will do exactly what he would do in the safety of a living room (observe, sleep, chase, groom …) with the occasional kill of a songbird as a bonus. In fact, there is not much out there to do for an animal that has no place in the wild and much less in the city, except as a “companion.”

Outdoor-access cats develop a checking-in routine for feeding or human companionship. When they fail to show up at the usual time, guardians should presume their pet is in trouble and start an immediate search following the recommendations stated below. Intact males and females are even more at risk because, even if able to return, the males may be wounded and the females will be pregnant.

For cats to live long, healthy lives, the only alternative is to adhere to the indoor-only plan. However, a door is left ajar or a screen comes off the window frame and, disaster! The cat is out.

Given a chance, most indoor cats will heed the call of the wild only to discover that there is danger all around. Faced with strange smells, noises, and creatures, the errant cat, instead of hightailing it back to safety, may go into hiding. If vocal, he’ll be quiet; if friendly, he’ll avoid people; and movement will be under the cover of bushes, night, and shadows.

Back home, the cat’s absence is met with justifiable panic. First impulse is to send out search parties in different directions to cover as much ground as possible and to plaster every utility pole in town with “Lost” posters. This MO is the correct one … if a dog goes missing. For cats, however, it requires subtle adjustments explained below. The first thing to remember to recover your cat is that he will rarely stray beyond three or four houses in either direction from where he ran out. Of course, a cat cared for enough to be kept indoors is presumed to be spayed and neutered; if not, all bets are off.

Quick action, a good plan, and perseverance are imperative. Don’t ever think “He’ll find his way back,” because there are at least as many chances that he will not. Waste no time and do the following:

1. Put food and water by the door the cat exited.

Keep it fresh. Alternatively, set a humane trap (see 6 below).

2.Search for the cat right away.

Don’t be discouraged if the first attempt fails … the cat may still be enjoying the newly gained freedom. Walk the immediate neighborhood at least twice a day without fail (preferably in the quiet hours of the early morning and late evening— take a flashlight). Search for the cat alone; only the cat’s closest people should be involved because unfamiliar voices and smells will send him into deeper hiding. Don’t send a child to do the job unless it’s the cat’s primary friend.

Your personal and steady involvement in the search helps remind your neighbors that the missing pet is not a passing concern to you, but a serious one. Don’t expect them to do your job for you, but they can be your eyes when you are not there. (See 4 below.)

  • Call your cat in gentle reassuring tones so that he may realize he is still near you and, therefore safe, this may keep him from wandering farther away.
  • Ask permission from the neighbors in a five-house radius to access their backyards, even when they are at work. Don’t bother to ask for access to yards with dogs, because no cat would hide there. Obtaining permission to enter other people’s yards (without being mistaken by a prowler) is a huge tactical advantage because tool sheds, decks, porches, and access to crawl spaces are behind, not in front of, houses. Look under structures, behind bushes, and up trees, wood-fence runners, window ledges… Leave no place unchecked.
  • Carry an unopened can of fishy food. If the cat is spotted, he may respond to the tempting sound and smell of a freshly opened can.
  • Take a pet carrier with you if you think the cat may walk into it or if he may be difficult to restrain in your arms once caught.

3. Post laminated “Lost” signs in the intersections around your address.

Use packaging-strength clear tape to affix the sign to utility poles—unlike staples it works on metal too. Place the signs at lower than eye level for car drivers to see. (Remember to remove all signs after your pet is found as a courtesy to your neighbors and a signal that the search is over.)

4. Distribute fliers, i.e., paper copies of the “Lost” sign, to each house or apartment near yours.

If the resident is not in, do not insert the flier in the mailbox, which is unlawful, but tape the flyer to the storm door or another visible spot by the entrance. Individual flyers give your neighbors:

  • a sense of how important your cat is to you
  • handy contact information (home, work, cell)
  • a visual description of the missing cat (photo is essential)
  • additional pertinent information (but keep it very short).

5. Take a copy of the flyer to the city shelters, humane societies, and neighborhood veterinarians in the event the cat is trapped by animal control or someone else and taken there.

Do not use this wide coverage, however, as an excuse to stop looking; because the cat is most likely only yards away from you.

6.If your cat is hard to catch, set one or two humane traps

(raccoon size is most comfortable for a regular size cat) by the house entrance or where your cat was last spotted. Be prepared, however, to catch other cats before yours. Carefully release the unwanted (and very angry) guest and start again. But first you will have to wash and disinfect the trap thoroughly to avoid contamination if the previous animal was sick and also because your cat will not walk into a place where another may have urinated or left the scent of fear.

  • For a baited trap to be effective, remove any other feeding stations. Ask your neighbors to refrain from trying to be kind by feeding your cat. Only hunger will drive the cat into the trap.
  • A pinch of catnip next to the food may make it more enticing.
  • Covering the trap with a towel or blanket makes it more inviting and provides shelter once the cat is inside.
  • Traps must be checked frequently to avoid exposure and prolonged fear of any animal inside.

With the plan outlined above, a cat should be recovered within hours or days of the escape, but be prepared to persevere longer. The search has to be aggressive and methodical. The life of a feral cat is short and hard; death is usually painful. Most feral cats were once owned by people who either abandoned them or “lost them,” which simply means that they failed to look for them under the mistaken belief that “Tom will come back when he’s ready.”

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