Author Archives: Dolores Proubasta

Bite Avoidance

posted July 15th, 2009 by Dolores Proubasta

By Dolores Proubasta

Dogs bite. What amazes me is that they don’t bite more often. We meet a dog by thrusting a hand in his direction. “Let the dog sniff you first,” goes the popular wisdom. This while standing tall and square, staring the dog in the eye, and showing teeth. Hello! This may work with a new neighbor, but in dog language it amounts to: “Do you want a piece of me, big boy?” The introduction is just the first thing we do wrong. Before learning how to do things right from a dog’s perspective, let’s first understand that most bites are not dog attacks as they are often (mistakenly) labeled, but one or two chomps in response to a real or perceived provocation/threat. Truth be told, dogs exercise more self-restraint than the average bar-room brawler in delivering what is necessary to stop an action without the full measure of damage even a Pomeranian can inflict.

Injured, frightened, cornered or trapped, and chained dogs (all of which are common in rescue situations) should be approached with extreme caution. Nursing dames are especially sensitive to intrusions. Timid, not socialized, or abused dogs, may be “fear biters” (See “Bite Triggers”).

• A dog who seems reluctant to be touched should not feel cornered; leave him space to retreat. Approach slowly in a curve pattern, presenting your side, not your front. Talk in soothing tones all the while. Make yourself “smaller,” not by bending or squatting. which would put you at risk, but curving your body to avoid appearing tense. Do not look the dog in the eye, but avert and soften your eyes. Relax, blink often, and breathe calmly. Yawning is reassuring to a frightened dog, smiling is not. Tasty treats (Vienna sausages work miracles) gently tossed his way can help earn his confidence. If the dog reacts negatively, stop what you are doing but keep talking reassuringly. Allow the dog time to reconsider, and try again.

• Don’t wear a hat nor carry anything resembling a stick, unless it is a control stick and you know how to use it. In particular, senior citizens should refrain from using a walking stick to scare a dog away, it may in fact provoke aggression.

• Face bites are painful and often severe. When approaching unknown or distressed dogs, do so in a position that protects your head. If you must lift up a dog who has no reason to trust you or who may be frightened and in pain, improvise an emergency muzzle (See “Emergency Muzzle,” left). Once in place, hold tight on the neck loop and cradle the dog’s chest with that arm and his rear with the other to lift him. Always keep your head away from his because he may react to the touch due to a concealed injury or illness.

• If an unfriendly dog heads your way, turn sideways and withdraw from his territory at a constant slow pace. Do not offer your back. Do not scream nor yell commands, but softly say “It’s ok,” “Go home,” “Good dog” nonstop. Try to put a tree, a dumpster, or any other large obstacle between you and the dog. If you carry an umbrella, a coat, a purse, etc. do not wield it menacingly, because it may trigger an attack. If the dog charges, use whatever is at hand to put it between you and his jaws. If you go down, curl up and protect face, neck, and head. The quieter you can remain, the sooner the dog will withdraw.

• Pairs of dogs can be protective of each other. Don’t let your guard down despite wagging tails: Give both equal attention, do not come in between them, and do not initiate any play or action with one that the other may consider aggressive.

• It cannot be overemphasized: Never run toward, past, or away from a dog unless you know him and you are playing. The chase instinct will be triggered and the average fat old dog can reach 19 mph (Greyhounds are clocked at 42 mph) at full speed versus a puny 12 mph conditioned human runner. Even Olympian Usain Bolt, at 23 mph, would have his shorts ripped by the average mutt.

• Topping high-risk situations is breaking up a dog fight. Hosing down and voice commands seldom stop dogs in the heat of battle. Do not hit them as this will infuriate them further. Do not step in between or use your arms unless you are wearing Kevlar gloves and sleeves. Quickly find a barrier to wedge between the dog’s faces, e.g., a large piece of plywood, an open parasol, a folded lawn chair or card table, a dog mattress, a large trash can lid, etc., that will block both their sight and teeth from each other. (With smaller breeds, a parka, blanket, or quilt is enough to separate the dogs and also bundle and scoop up one of them to safety.)

Recognizing danger A discussion about bite avoidance may leave the reader with the impression that human-canine relations are a time-bomb. Nothing’s farther from the truth. When there is mutual respect and trust between dogs and adult people it is perfectly safe to engage in activities one would be wise to avoid with an unfamiliar dog. However, Mark Twain’s dictum that the principal difference between a dog and a man is that “If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you,” has its limits. Even a family pet can get tired of rough-housing, be too possessive about a chew toy, feel threatened by a visitor, etc. and warn us that his mood is changing.

Although most dog bites are reported as “unprovoked,” in fact this is inconsistent with canine behavior. “Dogs are not unpredictable,” says Melissa Chan, animal behavior and training coordinator at the Houston SPCA. “They communicate in a language comprised largely of visual clues and offer many warning signs before even bristling, growling, and baring teeth.” Hard faces. More alarming than the cautionary baring of teeth is the agonistic pucker: the pursing of lips that precedes a bite. Other warnings are the tensing of facial muscles, such as a closed mouth, tension ridges on muzzle; ears back; eyes staring directly into yours, or else “whale eyes” (showing the white) looking at you but with the head turned in a different direction; brow tense or furrowed. Tongue flicks may also indicate high stress. All these are signs that you should slowly put some distance between you and the dog. Tense bodies. Do not approach a dog with tensed up muscles, whether standing straight or leaning forward. Hind legs tucked while the front of the body is leaning right or left, as if ready to run, are bad signs. If the dog is holding his breath, don’t hold yours (always breathe calmly), but slowly start withdrawing. Other than the dog’s own body language, other aspects to be considered are:

Bite Triggers Injured, frightened, cornered, chained, trapped, or nursing dogs are likely to bite. Threatening behavior – some examples:
• Bending over a dog, or rousing him from his sleep
• Reaching to touch a dog’s head (when he doesn’t want to be touched)
• Staring into a dog’s eyes (worse, at eye level, like toddlers do)
• Trying to touch or remove a bone, a toy, a bowl of food or anything the dog wants
• Screaming near the dog’s face or producing other startling noises in his proximity
• Running toward, past, or away from a dog
• Walking too close to a dog on leash
• Entering a protective dog’s territory
• Being afraid in the presence of a dog
• Sticking a hand or finger (especially children) inside a dog’s enclosure
• Making threatening gestures, like raising a fist or wielding a stick
• Causing pain, injury, or subjugation to a dog
• Overexcitement during play can cause a friendly dog to nip or bite as he would a playmate. Although no aggression or warning is intended, children and older people with delicate skins can suffer lacerations.

Children at Risk The benefits of a child growing up with a dog far surpass the risks if adults provide a safe environment for both. Here is how:

• Infants and toddlers should never be unsupervised when there is a dog present, because face, head, and neck injuries may be life threatening. Even the trusted family pet may be startled by a noise, annoyed by the baby touching his toy, etc.

• Children between the ages of 5 and 12 are at greater risk of being bitten. Their hyperactivity, unpredictability, and noisiness are destabilizing to all animals (including people). Most dog-to-child bites are provoked by the child’s behavior. Therefore, impress on your children the correct behavior to observe with dogs and all pets:

1. Supervise children’s ages 0-12 whenever there is a dog present.
2. Teach children to treat dogs with kindness and respect, without instilling undue fear.
3. Issue absolute rules: “Don’t chase, don’t grab, don’t stare, don’t hit, don’t yell, don’t run,” etc. and post a written list on the refrigerator or another central place.
4. Firmly and consistently correct any departure from safe behavior.

• Contact the school principal requesting a dog bite prevention lecture by a competent professional (Chart 4) be included in the calendar year. In the final analysis, when dog bites child (or vice versa), both are victims and the only ones to blame are the adults who failed to prevent it.

Dog breeds Theories as to which breeds are less likely to mix well in a family setting, especially with children (see “Children at Risk,” p. 21), differ. But because the popularity of breeds, and so their number, fluctuates and may nearly vanish, comparative breed specific bite statistics are unreliable. Often, the person reporting a bite will identify the dog as “pit bull” (there is no such breed) when in reality it may be a deep-in-chest, cheeky faced crossbreed, an American Bulldog, or other. People commonly identify dogs of mixed ancestry as purebreds. All this produces unreliable data that gives a false sense of security at best. The propensity to bite actually results from interacting factors such as heredity, socialization, training, and mental/physical health. The difference between pit bull types, Akitas, Huskies, or other powerful dogs, and breeds who are, in fact, more likely to bite (like Cocker Spaniels and Chihuahuas among others) is in the consequences, which increase in severity and mortality proportionally to the size and strength of the dog. Interestingly, the ban on certain breeds (e.g., pit-bull types in the United Kingdom in the 1990s), invariably fails to lower the number of dog bites, which keeps rising. This is one of the many arguments backing up the positions of The American Veterinary Medical Association, the American Kennel Club, the ASPCA, HSUS and others, all of which reject breed discrimination in favor of (1) public education (See “Education is Prevention,” left) and (2) responsible pet ownership to curb dog bite incidents (see “Education is Prevention,” left). Which brings us to the “people
factor.”

It’s not the dog’s fault At the root of most bites is an irresponsible owner who failed to: (1) sterilize; (2) socialize and train; and (3) contain the dog. Puppy-mill breeders give no consideration to temperament or socialization of their “stock,” and backyard breeders are, by definition, irresponsible owners. If the dog is a stray, it is because he was abandoned, neglected, or unrestrained. Behind every dog bite, there is a person to blame.

• Sterilization is the first step toward responsible pet ownership. Neutered dogs are three times less likely to bite. People who cannot afford veterinary services for their pets should clearly not have them, but lack of money is no excuse. Anyone receiving assistance from the Department of Human Services can apply with the caseworker to get free spay and neuter surgeries, rabies and other vaccines through the Tulsa County Veterinary Medical Association.

• A growing number of people, many of them youngsters, sad to say, instigate their dogs to be aggressive. Dog bites have increased disproportionate to the number of dogs owned (see “USA Facts,” above). Most dog bites are not reported because the gravity of the injury doesn’t warrant it (see “When Bites Occur,” right). Veterinarians, vet technicians, animal rescuers and shelter personnel among others are bitten on a regular basis. But the rare attack by a Presa Canario or a Rottweiler can cause severe injuries and sensational headlines, thus unfairly smearing the reputation of the whole breed. More is the pity, when a bad reputation attracts irresponsible owners and breeders.

• Animal shelters and humane societies get their share of visitors who scope the runs for “mean” dogs — dogs who never bit anyone before, but will be goaded into becoming aggressive or die in the process. Although anyone suspected of wanting a dog for the wrong reasons is refused adoption, some manage to fake good intentions and, tragically, good dogs end up with bad people.

• Victims themselves are often the cause for being bitten because, intentionally or not, they scared or challenged the dog. Fear of dogs may be, in fact, one of the chief causes why city dwellers unaccustomed to animals, and people from cultures which shrink from dogs are often bit. People afraid of dogs should simply avoid them. When visiting a home with pets, ask the owner to confine the dog. Don’t let anyone persuade you to touch the dog to get over your fear, because your fear is contagious to the dog, and that can be dangerous. Also, avoid areas where dogs may be running loose. If despite all precautions you are confronted by a dog, remain calm. Don’t look at the dog, don’t stiffen up, don’t scream or ask for help, but slowly turn your side (not your back) to him, and start backing off. Try to breathe calmly.

• When the victim is a child, invariably it’s the negligence of parents, guardians, dog owners, or any other adult who should have prevented the situation. People, in short, expect more discernment and self-control from dogs than from their own kind. The vast majority of dogs live up to our unreasonable expectations, but those who can’t often pay for relatively small injuries with their lives. Dogs are still and forever man’s best friend. For their sake and ours, let’s be reasonable and careful.

USA Facts More than 4.7 million people (2% of the population) are bitten each year; more dog bites go unreported 77% of biting dogs belong to a relative or friend of the victim. Only 10% of bites are inflicted by dogs unknown to the victim
50% of the bites occur on the dog owner’s property Intact (not neutered) male dogs represent 70-76% of all reported dog bite incidents. There is a 1-in-50 chance of being bitten during a 12-month period 1-in-6 bites requires medical attention 5% of all ER cases are bites Maulings caused 23 deaths in 2008; 16 were children. There are nearly 80 million owned dogs 39% of the households own at least one dog Dog bite injuries account for more than 1/3 of all liability claims against homeowners insurance.

Data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, American Veterinary Medical Association, American Medical Association, Insurance Information Institute.

Education is Prevention Bite prevention is a matter of continued education from kindergarten to retirement community. Qualified professionals to lead public education efforts are veterinarians, National Animal Control Association certified animal control officers, SPCA, HSUS or other humane society/animal shelter/rescue group education specialists, and American College of Veterinary Behaviorists graduates.

• Children are the main target group. School lectures, assembly programs, games, field trips to shelters including lecture by an animal behaviorist, all can teach children safe behavior.

• Parents must be reminded of their responsibility to (1) supervise their children and (2) insist on safe behavior. Educational materials can be distributed with school announcements, doctor’s wellness reports, veterinary invoices, utility bills, etc.

• People who spend time outdoors —bicyclists, joggers, meter readers, mail carriers, real estate agents, and delivery personnel among others— or visit other people’s homes — such as social workers, home care providers, or pet sitters — need specific information distributed by employers, clubs, and associations on how to handle animal-related situations they are likely to encounter.

• Senior citizens can benefit from dog bite prevention lectures and programs through church groups, recreational centers, travel groups, shopping malls, health care professionals, and others.

• Shelters and other animal adoption centers should provide guidance to those seeking to obtain a dog, steering them away from bad matches. Ideally, all people who decide to adopt a dog should attend a realistic bite-prevention film before signing on the dotted line.

• Pet stores, groomers, dog shows, trainers … all should distribute dog-bite prevention literature.

• The media should offer regular bite-prevention tips through interviews with experts, printed lists of do’s and don’ts that parents can attach to the fridge, sponsorship of pet-ownership education events, etc.

• Community standards for responsible ownership should be established by every local government. Dogs owners should be informed of the ordinances and rules enforced, the main obstacle, however, is that the least likely to comply are dog owners with minimal attachment to their pets, precisely those responsible
for a majority of dog-bite incidents.

Posted in Animal Advocacy, General Interest, Summer 2009 | No Comments »

BELLA

posted April 15th, 2009 by Dolores Proubasta

By Dolores Proubasta

“The bitch got pregnant again.” That’s how many dogs end up in the street. This is how I ran into what dog breeders would call a junk Rottweiler. Her pups, of which she had had several litters before, wouldn’t fetch the money worth driving them to a flea market. This much we can surmise. Why someone dropped her by a gas station, and sped off, we can only guess. What we know with certainty is that it happens often.

Waddling along and, dangerously, across Hwy 11 looking for her owner and for food she bothered no one, but Rotties have a bad rep, and some gas station customers managed to feel intimidated by a shy dog full of pups in her belly. With the local shelter filled to capacity, rumor had it that a sheriff ’s deputy would have to shoot her. Miles away from this unfolding drama, I was paying my bill at Southern Ag on Harvard. Almost by way of a good bye, the peerless store manager, Felicia, happened to mention the sad case of the dog up in Sperry.
Alternative responses to a situation that begs for a more civilized solution than shooting a dog are: Most people shrug unconcerned; an exceptional few rush to the scene; or some of us reason that scores of similar dramas take place in Tulsa every day—hundreds of thousands in America—and because we can’t help them all, we do nothing. This case, however, begged for action: It was the day after Christmas, below freezing, severe thunderstorms in the forecast, the dog was pregnant… It was impossible to let it go.
Arriving at the conclusion that it would be easier to attempt a rescue than to regret my inaction forever, I put some moist dog food in a plastic container, took a leash, a blanket, and some Vienna sausages for good measure and, at that point, my husband, Christopher –ensuring continued holiday cheer— wisely offered to drive. While heading north, we called every shelter and veterinarian near and far to weigh our options; there were none— every cage in NE Oklahoma was full. We arrived wondering what to do if we found her.

The gas station clerks had seen her that morning. Clouds were gathering while Chris looked around the trash bins and I surveyed the fields. Then I spotted a black, lumbering dog across, and headed for, Hwy 11. I hastened to cross before she did, walking around and past her at a non-threatening distance, heading away from the road, thus hoping to detour her. Once she started turning her head toward me, I squatted and placed the open food container toward her, but within my reach. Softly I called her, still squatting motionless and half-turned away from her line of approach. Eventually, as my legs began to cramp, hunger won over fear and she came. I let her gulp most of the food and then, hoping he wouldn’t panic, I slipped the choke collar around her neck. As one accustomed to people’s betrayal, she looked at me as if to say, “And now what?”

The dog was weary and almost in labor; she would not get up to walk to the car, which Chris had brought very close to us. One by one, however, the sausages got us closer to the door and finally inside the car. Having failed to set an appointment on the phone with any veterinarian, being southbound on Peoria anyway, we opted spur-of- the-moment for City Veterinary Hospital.

Setting aside the fact that certain people are capable of tossing a pregnant animal out of a vehicle, “Who among civilized folk could see her in such condition and turn her down?” we reasoned while keeping our fingers crossed. City Veterinary also was within walking distance of some liquor-serving establishments, whose services I would soon require.

Dr. Chet Thomas listened to a synopsis of the situation. Then I asked, “Can you terminate the pregnancy, spay her, and give her all the necessary shots?” He replied, “Terminate the pregnancy and then spay?” “Yes,” I answered. “I have no problem with that,” said the good doctor. Chris and I breathed with relief: All would be well. Eleven viable pups were prevented from seeing the light that afternoon. They didn’t suffer. And the only other good thing that can be said about it is that their mother wouldn’t miss them. Is life preordained to be grim, miserable, or cruelly ended worth getting started? Opinions differ, but the statistics are clear: Had those pups been born, even if each and all were adopted, five or six of them would have died before their first birthday. Those who reached adulthood would have endured a series of ups and mostly downs while being passed on from home to home, ending up in a shelter in the best of cases. Cruelty investigators, police, and veterinarians could tell you of the fates of many others. The roads are also full of their corpses. The fact is that only one of the 11 was likely, just “likely,” to complete his natural life cycle with the first person to adopt him and to receive proper treatment throughout. One in 11, by the way, is an optimistic expectation.

Tens of thousands of pups and kittens born in the US each day must compete against each other for homes. From the moment they are born, one-third of them are surplus and killed –humanely or not— while still in the cute and bouncy stage. To the vast majority of the survivors, even if adopted, life is like Russian roulette.

To humane organizations or individual rescuers, terminating a pregnancy, far from being a capricious decision, is based on the premise that by preventing new births an equivalent number of pups or kittens already alive and self conscious are given a chance. One birth always comes at the expense of another life in a world of limited homes and even fewer responsible pet owners.

This is an equation, however, that should not affect the mother. Having survived against ominous odds, an adult dog or cat is an intelligent being, aware of self, the surroundings, and past experience, which entitles her to preferential treatment over the potential offspring. I knew of no 12 homes I could guarantee forever as if my own, but I did know of one: Lanette Dietz’, my niece, who named her “Bella.” Imagine that: Someone’s discarded junk dog becoming someone else’s “Beautiful” companion.

Posted in General Interest, Spring 2009 | No Comments »

Tools of the Good Samaritan

posted January 15th, 2009 by Dolores Proubasta

Beaten and left to die by the side of the road, the stricken figure in the Parable of the Good Samaritan could well have been a dog or a cat. Lucky for the biblical victim, the one man who took pity happened to have cloth and ointment for first aid, a donkey to transport him, and sufficient shekels to get further help. He was also willing to endure criticism for helping a victim others wouldn’t touch.

The right tools are key to succeeding at most endeavors; and so it is with rescue operations. The person is, however, the essential rescue unit, and both the mind and the body must be up to the task. The right frame of mind may consist of quick thinking, resolve, imagination, or even chutzpa, according to thesituation, and in all cases selflessness and courage—qualities that make an every-day hero of the average person. A rescue operation may involve risk, such as being bitten or hit by a car, as in the leading rescue situation: Injured animal on busy road. The vast majority of drivers will not (I repeat, not) slow down at the sight of an injured animal or the person trying to help. It is therefore crucial that the rescuer’s physical ability be up to the task. If an animal is drowning, you must know how to swim; if he is on the road, you had better run. Being realistic and knowing one’s own limitations doesn’t mean abandoning the cause. If physical involvement is not safe, call for help, and try to protect or block the animal from further injury until help arrives.

Regardless of one’s own age and condition, those of us who can’t look away when an animal is in danger may find that a great motivation to stay fit, stay agile, build self-confidence, and be ready—it’s like being a cop, a soldier, a lifeguard. Finally, a better reason to go the gym, walk every day, get on with the program.

With mind and body ready to rescue animals, let’s now review the hardware that can assist us. Even a jogger or a bicyclist can stash some essentials in a fanny pack:

Adjustable nylon leash to fit small-to-large dogs
Moist treat (sealed in plastic)
Rolled up pillow case to transport a bird or cat (being encased in one calms the animal down and prevents an escape as you hold the open end tight)
Money to “buy” solutions—like a can of food to lure a hungry stray
Cell phone with vital numbers keyed in your directory:

(1) Your veterinarian or a veterinarian(s) in the area(s) you frequent.

(2) Animal Emergency Center (918-665-0508), Tulsa’s 24/7 emergency and trauma medicine clinic, fully equipped and staffed, at 7220 E. 41 St.

(3) Animal Aid (918-744-8280)

(4) Tulsa SPCA 918-428-7722 to report cruelty cases ( also can be done via www.tulsaspca.org/ContactUs/contact_form.htm.)

(5) Pet-friendly taxi service (even if you have a car, find one beforehand, in case it breaks down as you transport an injured or ailing animal).

(6) Police nonemergency (918-596-9222) for animal disturbances. In cases of criminal activity such as animal fighting, physical abuse, and other life-threatening situations, call 911.

(7) ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435), a 24-hour emergency hotline.

Your vehicle can be a mobile rescue unit including:

Additional dog leashes/collars (because strays may run in pairs)

Cat carrier (good also for birds and other small animals)
Lightweight thermal blanket (because injured animals will go into shock)
Bag of puppy training pads (to protect car upholstery)
Can of dog/cat food
Bottled water and disposable bowls (to leave behind for a thirsty animal you may not be able to rescue)
A booklet on animal first aid procedures
First aid kit with: latex gloves; towel and washcloth; muzzle (lengths of gauze roll can be used instead); scissors and tweezers; assorted sterile gauze pads and nonadhesive bandages; splints (clean paint sticks, scrap wood, etc.) and elastic bandage rolls to immobilize broken limbs; eyedropper; any other items you can think of.
Pharmaceuticals to include in first aid kit: saline solution (for rinsing wounds); styptic powder (clotting agent); instant cold compress; hydrocortisone cream; 3% hydrogen peroxide; sterile eye rinse; triple-antibiotic ointment (for wounds); antibiotic eye ointment. Ask your vet for further suggestions.
Flea and tick prevention and treatment product (can bring relief to an animal you can’t help otherwise)
Be aware that neither food nor pharmaceutical products should be left in the car when temperatures are high. Extreme Samaritans may wish to also consider the following items. Check www.livetrap.com for reference and further ideas.

Collapsible or regular live trap (for shy or feral animals)
Control pole (for dogs likely to bite due to injury or lack of socialization)
Hoop net (for cats, birds, and other small animals)
Kevlar gloves (sometimes available free of charge from those discarded by the Tulsa Fire Department)
Bolt cutters (…you will know when to use them)
Microchip scanner

In some cases there’s no substitute for imagination. Like the case of a woman who befriended two semi-wild dogs she could not coax into the car. Although a control pole could have helpd capture at least one dog, she didn’t want to separate the pair and so, while continuing to earn their trust, she placed reflective collars with her phone number on their necks. Collars increase the chances of a dog being helped because would-be rescuers expect to find information (phone number(s), rabies tags, etc.) leading to the owners. In this case, one of the dogs was trapped by animal control officers, who called the number on the collar. Thus the woman took possession of the animal, socialized him, and found him a forever home. Sadly, the other dog was not seen again.

Which brings us back to the mental aspect of animal rescue. Not all attempts are successful. The stricken animal may be killed as help is on the way or die on the way to the clinic. Don’t be discouraged; you could have saved a life, and other times you will. Others didn’t even try.

Also disturbing is that people often refuse to assist the rescuer and may even chastise or ridicule him for helping “an animal.” I once was vociferously reprimanded –but not assisted— by one of Tulsa’s finest for pulling a large injured Shepherd away from the oncoming wave of traffic on the eastbound BA expressway. As the dog agonized in my arms on the shoulder of the road, the man proceeded with his tirade until I finally yelled back: “Would you be talking to me like you are if this were a person!?” That’s what I mean by chutzpa. Don’t be intimidated.

Why be a Good Samaritan to animals? Simply because it’s the right thing to do.

Story by Dolores Probasta

Posted in All Past Articles, Animal Advocacy, General Interest, Winter 2009 | No Comments »

Volunteering: The Gift of Self

posted October 15th, 2008 by Dolores Proubasta

If a visit to the local animal shelter makes you sad and mad, you may be ideally suited to be a direct care volunteer.

Humane societies, rescue operations, and all welfare organizations need men and women willing to tackle hands-on care; people who don’t flinch at noise, smells, physical work, crises, or, worst of all, dealing with the public. But first and foremost, direct care requires empathy (not just pity or sympathy or love) and also indignation. Yes, indignation at the circumstances that render animals homeless, unwanted, and often scarred physically and mentally is the fuel that fires long-term volunteers, which in direct animal care amount to less than 30% of those who sign up. Ironically, empathy and indignation – the desirable attributes – are also what can drive some enthusiastic volunteers to quit and what can keep potential candidates away.

Tulsa Shelter volunteer Jordan Thompson plays with a lab up for adoption

It’s a given that being in direct contact with the most helpless, innocent, and unprotected victims of society takes its toll on emotions. Dealing with an endless stream of dogs, cats and other discarded creatures – from newborns to geriatric, healthy or unable to stand, once pampered or having known nothing but misery, highly adoptable or presumably hopeless – can be too painful, too frustrating, too sad, for a right-minded person to endure …. Unless, that is, one broaches the issue constructively.

Embrace the concept that there is no gain without pain; without volunteers giving generously of themselves, homeless animals could not be spared. It can be overwhelming at first, but according to every direct care volunteer I have interviewed, the key to success is perseverance. The initial despair evolves into a sense of mission. The dread becomes a drive. As consecutive emotional hurdles are cleared, volunteers gain skills, strength, and the realization that they are improving lives; saving lives. As a last-year medical student who volunteers at the Houston SPCA, put it: “It becomes addictive.”

There are fringe benefits too. Yet another volunteer, a petroleum engineer, told me that the unwanted pounds he could not lose in an expensive gym, melted away walking dogs at the shelter; and loving it. But not all of us are fit to control a 100-pound canine bent on running to the next county. Direct animal care includes smaller pets, birds and exotics, feeding puppies and kittens, socialization exercises and behavior evaluations, and possibly the most crucial of all volunteer activities (in the comfort of your own home): Foster home care for animals who need medical attention, maturing or fattening up, learning social skills, or some much needed R&R after a long time in the shelter. If direct care is not for you, there are numerous activities in administration, promotion, fund-raising, retail, special events, and more that keep animal welfare organizations running. The important thing is to act.

Volunteers with PAWS working on envelope stuffing for a fund raising event. From left: Casey Largent, Elaine Hammer, Cat Dufau, Dianne Smith, Beau Adams, and Allen Suzor.

Everyone develops a code of conduct they find useful. The following points are some recommendations gleaned from conversations with experienced volunteers.

Persevere. Don’t give up just because it is overwhelming or heart wrenching or infuriating … If you do, the animals lose; and so do you. As you grow stronger and realize how critical your help is, you will look forward to it.
Set a realistic regime of hours you will serve and stick to it, as if it were a paying job (which, in a sense, it is). Reevaluate your schedule, performance, and emotional condition at the end of three months.
Cooperate with shelter staff and fellow volunteers. Always help others and ask for help if you need it. No task is insignificant if it benefits an animal.
Don’t complain or criticize. Most rescue facilities are understaffed, in need of repairs, better equipment, and supplies. Knowing this, make the best with what you’ve got or help improve the situation. Create consensus on viable changes and innovative solutions, and work toward their implementation.
Maintain your sense of humor … or develop one, because you will need it. Talk to the animals out loud as you would talk to a friend while you clean cages, walk or groom them, or simply are in their proximity. Don’t feel awkward doing this, because your voice is therapy to them.
Use volunteerism as a springboard for education and growth. Read animal care books, attend seminars, know your organization, discuss practices with experienced personnel … anything that makes you more effective at helping animals. Ask questions. Share your knowledge.
“Chill” if you deal with people who surrender their pets. Listen to their reason/excuse but don’t take it at face value, because they usually blame the animal for their own mistakes. Take the surrendered pet away from their presence ASAP; it’s too late for pretending they care. Don’t waste your time or emotions on those people; concentrate on helping the animals.
Refer to (4) if you deal with the public in adoptions. Help potential adopters find the correct match; i.e., athletic dogs with athletic people; seniors with seniors; etc. Inform people with children of the situations that may cause a perfectly good dog or cat to bite. Learn which breeds may be a liability with children. Don’t assume adopters know the basics of pet care or training; give them useful tips.
Look sharp and cheerful even if you are holding a mop. Volunteers are the face of the organization and of the very concept of animal welfare! Don’t act like a prison guard, but like the champion you are of wonderful animals and of a noble cause.
Value your own contribution. A bath, a walk, or any kindness to an animal could well be the happiest moment that creature has known. Enabling animals to regain their physical strength and trust in people, preparing them for a better life, is life-saving work. What could be more important?

Large and small animal welfare organizations rely on volunteers for their existence. If you want to help animals in a big way but don’t have a million dollars to donate, then determine the size, philosophy, and speed of the local organization that suits you, and volunteer. Don’t say “I couldn’t bear it;” you may be surprised at your own strength.

On the inevitable times when the spirit sinks and you – like animal welfare workers everywhere – think you can’t take it any longer, choose a cage, any cage, and go inside or sit by it. Tell the occupant of your frustration, your lack of time, your inability to continue … cry if you feel like it. Maybe he or she can persuade you to stay.

Story by Dolores Probasta

Posted in All Past Articles, Fall 2008, General Interest | No Comments »

Moving to Muskogee? You Don’t Have to Give Up That Cat!

posted July 15th, 2008 by Dolores Proubasta

Job transfers, marriage, divorce, and other life changes often entail a change of address.

Companion animals, like dependent children, require an added measure of provision to ensure a smooth move, be it down the street, across country, or abroad. Sadly, animals are sometimes given less consideration than Aunt Zelda’s bulky old armoire, which must remain in the family at any cost. The cat, the dog, the hamster … well, they’ll find a new home. What happens to pets left behind seldom has a happy ending.

Like hand-me-downs, companion animals passed on from one home to another tend to be given away yet again, losing value to each consecutive guardian or owner. The net result is that these animals become progressively “disposable” and may suffer premature deaths, or worse, a life of neglect and even cruel treatment.

Moving is the leading reason given for owner-surrendered animals at shelters and humane societies. Some people cry when they leave (i.e., “abandon to their fate”) their bewildered pet at the shelter, but do it nonetheless. Others surrender the gift-kitten they cooed about last Christmas, or the arthritic dog who has been loyal to the family for 10 years with no more concern than dumping a bag of old clothes at a collection bin. Regardless of their state of mind, both types of people are breaking the implicit commitment, the ethical obligation, the promise that comes with adopting, purchasing, inheriting, or accepting a living, feeling creature: To care for him or her for the rest of its natural life.

There are times, however, when taking pets along is truly impossible –e.g. tour of duty in the Armed Forces, moving to a healthcare facility, a ban on the dog breed at the point of destination, etc.—and the pet owner has no alternative but to entrust their temporary care to someone else. The ideal solution in such cases is finding a foster-home arrangement with a capable friend, relative, or pet nanny until pet and owner can be reunited. Boarding in a reputable kennel can be expensive, but sometimes is the only way to ensure proper care of the animal in the owner’s absence. In any case, even with friends and relatives, the owner should offer compensation proportional to the cost of food, medical care, and other expenses to ensure that the favor doesn’t turn into a burden.

Too many people think that coping with pets in a move is hard to handle. Not so and no more than coping with children or personal possessions in such cases. Changing residence in town is easy, and yet some people see barriers that don’t exist. “They don’t allow pets in the new apartment,” they say, ignoring the availability of pet-friendly quality rentals anywhere in the continental United States. “The new house has white carpet…” having never considered hardwood, tile flooring, or a sensible carpet print. And the pinnacle of poor choices: “My new room-mate (partner, spouse) ‘won’t allow’ pets…” and pity the person who will agree to such demands. In fact, when a pet means so little to the owner, it is in the pet’s best interest to find better people to live with.

Moving within the United States (with the exception of Hawaii) poses no special problems for pet owners. Real estate agencies are familiar with pet-friendly rental and lease properties. Some landlords may be swayed to accept pets if the renter offers a higher deposit or agrees to replacement conditions.

While looking for a permanent residence, pet owners have at least three options: (1) live in temporary pet-friendly accommodations with their pet, (2) board the pet, or (3) ask friends or relatives in the new or in the former location to keep the pet until a permanent residence can be found. In the latter case, there should be no arm-twisting; the provisional caregivers should be willing and able to provide properly for the pet in a safe environment –e.g., strong fence, no vicious children to torment it, etc. In all fairness, provisional custody of a pet should never be an open-ended proposition, and the caregiver should be given a timeframe within which the pet will be retrieved by the owner. The caregiver should also receive money to cover pet food and other expenses.

International transfers present greater challenges, but in most cases are possible. The first step is to check with the Embassy of the destination country as to their pet importation laws. A listing of foreign embassies and consulates is available on the Department of State’s website at http://www.state.gov/s/cpr/rls/dpl/32122.htm. Fortunately, most countries have reasonable requirements for importing companion animals. The Embassy of the country of destination, the air carrier, and a USDA accredited veterinarian must be involved from the start. It helps to create a schedule with requirements, deadlines, reminders … and follow it through.

Some countries, however, have strict quarantines on agriculture and wildlife, and customs requirements and prohibitions. There may also be bans on breeds considered dangerous such as Staffordshire (Pit) Bull Terrier, Akita, Presa Canario, and others, but these differ from country to country. In such cases, the owner should find a suitable new home, preferably among people he knows and who are capable to handle a high-performance breed. That failing, it is necessary to contact a breed-specific rescue group which will place the animal only with those who can handle the breed. Also, when the importation of an exotic species is banned, there are dedicated sanctuaries that may take the animal in exchange for a usually tax-deductible donation. Petting or road-side zoos are no place for any animal. The credential of the sanctuary or shelter must be carefully checked.

The second, and essential step, is to contact the airlines that service the country of destination to find out the pet-friendliest (KLM hands down). Air carriers have their own regulations concerning a (1) a certificate of health from a USDA accredited veterinarian within 10 days of any travel date; (2) a summer pet embargo when temperatures are forecasted to be above 85F/29.5C at any point on the itinerary (origin, transfer, or final destination); 75F/24C for snub-nose animals; (3) limits on the number of service animals and small pets allowed as carry-on luggage in cabin on a flight, (4) specific air kennel dimensions and strength to ensure the comfort and safety of the animal, and others.

Horses deserve special mention. To move them internationally is generally too expensive. Finding someone willing to buy or adopt a horse and “put it in the pasture” is easy; finding someone physically, mentally, and financially capable of caring for a horse is not. Beware of anyone who wants a horse “for the kids to ride,” because it will be re-sold as quickly as children lose interest. Horses are often victims of neglect and abuse when they fail to meet people’s unreasonable expectations. The owner of a horse should carefully check the potential adopter/buyer’s animal record, his financial ability to support it, and personally tour the stable and check the other horses. When in doubt, the horse is better off taken to a horse-rescue organization or SPCA (with a generous donation) where he or she will be safe until a good home is found.

I have moved multiple pets locally, nationally, and internationally without a single problem. The latest and most challenging experience was to Saudi Arabia. The first obstacle was the country’s limit of two pets per expatriate family; I had 12 at the time. I chose to take the two dogs, because they would be happy anywhere as long as I’m there; my cats, on the other hand, would be better off staying in their familiar Tulsa home, provided I could find a reliable caregiver. Luckily, I was able to strike a deal with a young, responsible woman, who would move into my house (with her own two cats and dog) to care for my cats in exchange for living there free of rent. A special account was created from which she paid all animal expenses. This solution turned out to be a success: The cats thrived under her care; she was able to start saving by not paying rent; and I had the peace of mind of knowing that my pets back in Tulsa were not suffering from my decision and I could enjoy their company anytime I went back.

The two large dogs I took to Saudi Arabia required Veterinary Health Certificates, rabies boosters and other inoculations. The bureaucratic maze was considerable: The certificates had to be authenticated by the Department of Agriculture and by the State Department Authentication Division. Incidentally, the cover letters accompanying each authenticated certificate were signed by the US Secretary of State herself, Condoleezza Rice! Then the Consular Section of the Royal Embassy of Saudi Arabia had to certify the certificate … You probably guessed it already: Some countries create an obstacle course to discourage the importation of pets. So you proceed to beat them at their game.

At the end of the trip, when the dog, the cat, the parrot … your loving, trusting companion, comes out of the carrier and you are there to meet him or her, there is no better feeling, knowing they are safely with you because you have honored the lifelong commitment; you kept the promise.

Story by Dolores Probasta

Posted in All Past Articles, General Interest, Summer 2008 | No Comments »