Author Archives: Mary Green

Training 411

posted September 15th, 2011 by Mary Green

by Mary Green

Q I’m fostering a dog right now that really needs some socialization. She is usually really timid around people she doesn’t know. I’ve had her a month now, and it took her a couple of weeks to get used to me. My mom came over the other day and Daisy urinated twice like she was scared. But another time, when we were on a walk, she acted like she wanted to make friends with a lady and then growled at her. I want to help her. What should I do?

A Kudos to you for fostering Daisy and helping her get some skills to be more adoptable! I think it’s a plus that she has bonded with you. Hopefully, by bonding with you, Daisy will show that she can bond with a forever owner. Socializing an adult dog is a bit tricky. Make greeting a new person a very lowkey event for her. You should remove the social pressure she may feel about a person coming too close, or touching her. In your home, have Daisy on leash when people come over. Have some very yummy treats available or a favorite ball or tug toy that she only gets when there is company. She does not have to interact with the company! It’s important that she just make a happy association between company and a really special treat. Let Daisy determine whether or not she wants to approach people, but instruct them not to reach out to her or pet her. Those first meetings should be very brief and not too stressful.
It could be that Daisy urinated when your mom came over because she was unsure about mom. The greeting between the two of you could have been too energetic for her. Maybe you were excited to see mom, and show off Daisy. Or, Mom could have been over solicitous with Daisy (in a loving manner) and it was just too much pressure. Dogs may urinate out of submission, over stimulation, or stress. Daisy may have growled at the lady on her walk because she was getting a little too close. Daisy may have been comfortable enough to reach forward to catch a sniff or two, but if the lady reached toward her, or moved closer, it signaled danger. If a greeting lasts a bit too long (by dog standards) a dog may become stressed. A dog will growl to increase the distance between herself and the stranger. As you meet people on a walk, and you stop to chat, just have Daisy sit politely beside you – or behind you if she’s insecure. If she moves toward the person, just instruct her to sit. You can use the same positive association that you use at home – people equal food! The treats don’t have to come from the stranger, and they should not come from the stranger. You should begin to see Daisy look at you expectantly for a treat when she sees a stranger on a walk. Once that’s happening, you know her perception is changing. Well intentioned people often speculate that a rescued or found dog may have been mistreated, or abused. We can’t ask them about their history with people, but it may just be that she never learned that people are a valuable resource. If Daisy is threatening visitors in your home, or menacing people on walks, you should consult with a professional.

Q We have a little dog that humps our toddler every chance he gets. He doesn’t do this to my husband or me, but he sure tries to go to town with the baby! Help!!

AYikes – no one likes to be the recipient of the dog’s unwelcomed advances. Poor baby! I assume he is grabbing the toddler around his waist. Humping, or mounting behavior, is when a dog clasps his forelegs around something (or someone) and moves his hips forward and backward. Your dog isn’t necessarily trying to “dominate” the baby. Sometimes mounting behavior is for a show of strength or prowess, but it can also be an invitation to play, or just something to do that feels good. Altered male dogs still do mounting behavior, as do many females. Adolescent males are probably the most notorious “humpers,” often choosing a favorite stuffed animal or pillow as his object d’amour. So how do you stop it? You might have to keep your dog on leash when the baby is mobile. Just leave the leash attached and let the dog drag it around. If he makes a beeline to the baby, just interrupt him – step on the leash and call him to you. Teach the toddler how to throw a toy for the dog. If he is running after a toy, he’s not close enough to hump! Please don’t punish the dog. Instead, redirect him to something else to do. If you punish him for humping, he could just decide that the presence of the baby, not his own behavior, is what angers you. Encourage great interactions with baby and dog so they can build a great relationship. When my son was a toddler, our dogs thought he was a Cheerios dispenser. They followed him everywhere, as he dropped Cheerios like the Pied Piper. As he grew, they developed a very strong, lifelong bond.

Mary Green, CPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer Knowledge Assessed), owns K9 Manners
& More in Broken Arrow. She is a professional member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, an associate of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, and an AKC CGC (Canine Good Citizen) evaluator.

Tags: Obedience Training
Posted in Pet Training, September 2011 | No Comments »

Training 411

posted March 15th, 2011 by Mary Green

Q&A by Mary Green

Q.

My dog Henry is a 35lb fox Hound mix that can make a running leap to the top of our 6 ft high privacy fence, which is made of 3″ cedar boards. from the top he jumps to the other side and roams the neighborhood for about 30 minutes and then jumps back into the backyard. I am afraid he may get hit by a car or picked up by animal control on one of these sojourns. Do you have any training methods to break this habit? I don’t like the idea of using an electric fence wire to detour him.

A.

You’re absolutely right; Henry could be very much endangered because of this behavior. The electric fence (hot wire) is a pretty harsh deterrent, so I am happy to suggest some less aversive ideas.

It would help to know why Henry is leaving the yard. Initially, I would ask you if he is neutered. If he is intact, he may be leaving the yard to go looking for love. Next, I would ask if he has enough to do in the yard. If he is spending a lot of time outside alone, he may be rather bored. Are you doing any sort of enrichment for him? You can create an interesting backyard environment by using some of the food delivery toys. A trip to the pet supply store will give you some ideas of things such as Buster Cube, Kibble Nibble, Kong toys, etc. If he can hunt in his own yard, which provides some nice activity, he may be less likely to wander. Are you taking Henry for walks in his neighborhood? He may need the exercise and mental stimulation that a walk can provide.

There is a product called Coyote Roller, which is a fence topper that rolls so an animal cannot get a grip and propel himself over the fence. Check their website at www.coyoteroller.com. I suspect you could fashion a similar design out of PVC pipe!

There are some anti-jumping harnesses on the market. My experience has been that a pet owner will put the harness on the dog, and still leave him unattended in the yard. He then proceeds to chew the harness up!

How about providing Henry a window to the neighborhood? Cut out a small section of your fence, place screen or other wire in it, and make a frame around it. Having a small place to look through is much more comforting than looking between the slats of the privacy fence!

Q.

My little dog, Zula has decided that if she doesn’t want to go outside she will play hide behind the couch. She also will not come when called from outside (unless it’s freezing). I know that I have spoiled her and it’s my fault for always having a cookie when I call her. She will only come if she thinks I have food now. I was thinking about leaving the leash on her and giving it a pop if she doesn’t come. Do you have any ideas? I’m afraid to do more harm than good!

A.

You’re right – a pop on the leash does not generally inspire the dog to come when you call her. Punishment like that can make a dog very wary of coming to an angry owner. Our approach would be to play some games to get her to come when you call her. At K9 Manners & More, we call this one “Catch & Release”. Pick a time to practice when Zula does not need to go out, or come in. Have some treats in your pocket, or otherwise hidden from the dog. Call Zula, and as soon as she looks toward you – toss her a treat! If she comes all the way to you, she gets the treat. You praise her, pet her, and let her go about her business.

When she gets interested in something else, call her again. If she doesn’t come all the way to you, toss the treat – gradually getting it close enough for you to touch her. Don’t require the dog to sit or do any other behavior – just a treat for coming. Practice multiple times/day. Catch – release. After about 3 days, do the same thing in the yard. Periodically go ahead and send Zula outside when you call her, but only about one third of the time.

We also play “Hide and Seek.” It’s pretty simple – you hide and then call your dog. She has to find you to get the treat. If her stay is solid, you can put her on a stay while you go hide. If not, ask a family member to distract or restrain the dog while you hide. If you can, practice inside and outside – if you are out of sight, the dog becomes curious about where you are and will find you!

Another strategy is to leave the leash on Zula inside and outside. If she hides, ducks away, or darts, you can snag her with the leash. If you have a plain old slip leash from the vet, these work well. Just loop it through her collar. You need to be carefully supervising, though, so she cannot become snagged on something or entangled and injured!

Tags: Pet Training, Tulsa
Posted in All Past Articles, March 2011, Pet Training | No Comments »

Home for the Holidays – or Home Away From Home?

posted November 15th, 2010 by Mary Green

Are you thinking about travelling with your pets for the Holidays? Are your out-of-town family members planning to bring their pet to stay in your house? These experiences can be Norman Rockwell painting-worthy, or turn your family into the Griswolds!

Are you contemplating travelling with your pets? Careful consideration and pre-planning can make the trip much less stressful.

How are you travelling?
If you are flying, can your pet travel in the cabin? If he can’t, can he fly safely as cargo? Will my pet be comfortable flying? What will happen if we don’t make our connections?

Be sure you are aware of the airline regulations for flying pets, and the necessary paperwork, and health certificates you need in order to fly an animal.

If you are driving, is your pet prone to car sickness? Is there enough room for everyone to ride safely? In the vehicle, your pet should be secured in a crate, or secured with a pet seat-belt. Is your dog used to going potty while he is on a leash? You must have your dog on leash at any rest stop. It would be disastrous to lose your dog at a potty-stop. Is your dog comfortable in the car alone? You may need to leave him to take your pit stop, or eat a meal. If he isn’t OK alone, who is going to stay with him? And is it cool enough to leave him safely in the car?

Where are you staying?
Are you staying with friends or relatives? Are your hosts going to welcome your pet? Is their household animal friendly – and animal safe? Consider where your pets will sleep, and go outside. Will you have to leash-walk, or if the yard is fenced, is it safe and secure? What about their animals – are they friendly with visiting pets? If your hosts don’t have animals, it may be quite a challenge for them to welcome yours! Wagging tails and joyous spinning can break decorations. And then, there’s the shedding!

Are you staying in a hotel? Staying in a pet-friendly hotel can be great fun, provided you plan ahead. Bring a blanket or sheet to put over the bedspread so your dog can lie on the bed. Don’t leave your dog unattended in the room unless you are certain he will be quiet! If you must leave, give the front desk your phone number in case they need to reach you. Be sure you take your dog to the designated area for pottying, and pick up all solid waste and dispose of it in an outdoor waste can or dumpster.

What should you bring?
Be sure to have an adequate supply of your pet’s food and medications. You may wish to bring water from home, or purchase spring water rather than give your dog tap water from a different source than he is used to, which can cause gastric upset. It is always a good idea to have a copy of your dog’s vaccination record with you. You may have to show proof of his Rabies vaccination in some states with quarantines (like Texas). The Rabies tag itself is not sufficient proof. Bring a couple of your dog’s favorite toys, or his bed or blanket to help him settle into a new environment.

Are your houseguests planning to bring their pets?
Again, pre-planning is the key.

Are the visiting pets crate trained? Where will they sleep? In general, it is much easier to travel with pets that are crate trained. Their crate becomes home away from home, and they are happy to sleep in the comfort of their own bed. If your guests don’t use a crate, ask them to bring a bed or mat from home for their pet to sleep on.

Is your yard safe? Are there any areas where a dog could escape through your fence? Make any repairs needed to ensure the safety of your houseguest. Is there a chance a visiting dog could open your gate? You may need to lock the gate during a visit.

What about your children – are the visiting dogs friendly with kids? Have your kids learned how to properly meet and greet pets? There are some very good resources available to educate children about pet safety. The American Kennel club has numerous age-appropriate resources on their website at www.akc.org/public_education/resources.cfm.

If your pets don’t exactly roll out the welcome mat for visiting animals, you may need to utilize dog or baby-gates and keep the animals separated. Try to keep to your dog’s normal schedule as much as possible. Feed each animal their usual diet – and don’t feed anyone table scraps!!!

If you decide it would be better not to travel with your pets, get reservations made ASAP with a reputable kennel facility. Pet sitters, veterinary clinics, and boarding kennels fill up extremely fast around the holidays.

Woofs and wags and Happy Holidays to all, from your friends at K9 Manners & More

Story by Mary Green

Posted in All Past Articles, General Interest, Holiday 2010, Pet Training | No Comments »

TRAINING 411

posted October 15th, 2010 by Mary Green

BY MARY GREEN

There’s a new puppy at my house! “Cinder,” a border collie, has come to join my family, and I find myself facing the same problems as every new puppy parent. This column is all about how I faced the challenges that Cinder brings to my life.

Q. At what age should a puppy leave his mother for his new family?
A.The AVMA (American Veterinary Medicine Association) says that puppies can leave the litter from 6 to 10 weeks. There is a huge difference developmentally between a six-week-old puppy and a tenweek- old puppy.

Cinder came home with me at eight weeks of age. For me, that was the optimal time. She had visited the veterinarian and received her first vaccines, she had been dewormed, and she was doing well on her commercial dog food. She had a great head start on crate training and house training, too!

Q. How do you crate train a puppy?
A.Start by making the crate a “happy” place. When you first introduce the puppy to her crate, put some really yummy food in there. Don’t close the door – just let her go in and explore, and leave when she wants to. Cinder liked having a couple of toys in her crate, and a puppy Nylabone®. Also in her crate, she gets a Kong® toy stuffed with her food and a treat.

By starting Cinder in a small travel crate, I was able to move the crate around the house, so she wouldn’t be isolated. I took her for car rides – always in her crate! At night, I placed the crate close to my bed, and if she was fussy, I tapped on top, or wiggled my fingers through the openings to distract her. I made the hard and fast rule that I never took her out of the crate while she was fussing. She had to be quiet for at least three seconds in order to be let out!

Crate training Cinder significantly aided her house training. Every time she came out of the crate, I immediately took her outside. If it was nighttime, I did not allow her to play. Once she had done her business, I took her back in, and put her in the crate with a biscuit. In the daytime, going potty outdoors meant that she had a period of freedom in the house (supervised, of course). If she did not eliminate, I put her back in the crate and gave her another chance 10-15 minutes later. She quickly learned to potty outside!

Q.Are dogs and cats natural enemies or can they get along?
A.They can get along and often do! Cats can often be overwhelmed by puppies or exuberant dogs. Be sure that initial meetings are well controlled to prevent any aggression from the dog. The cat needs to feel safe and secure, so she might be up on the back of a chair, or in a carrier if she is accustomed to one. Give each animal a really yummy treat when they meet each other. Another great tip is to rub each of the animals with a towel, then ‘introduce’ them by way of smelling the other towel.

Q.How do you introduce the puppy to other animals in your home?
A.First and foremost, do not traumatize the puppy! A traumatic encounter during early social development can have a lifelong effect on her behavior.

I was careful with Cinder’s introduction to my other dogs. I placed her in her crate and allowed each one individually to sniff her through the crate, and for her to see and smell them safely. Next, one at a time, I leashed the adult dog and allowed Cinder to come up to them, or retreat if she wanted. My dogs are quite well socialized, and my approach would have been different if they were not dogfriendly!

The other border collies (Bonnie & Kindle) accepted Cinder quickly, but don’t have a lot of tolerance for her puppy behavior. They are serious in their games, and are so fast and physical, that Cinder couldn’t participate until she got bigger.

Parker, my boxer, is the one who plays the tolerant Uncle to Cinder. He thinks she is the coolest thing ever! He has been a good role model for her, and accompanies her on her many adventures.

Q.How do you introduce the puppy to the children?
A.There aren’t children living at our house – just a couple of old folks! But I wanted my two-year-old grandson to safely meet Cinder. Puppies jump around, jump up, scratch and nip. This behavior tends to arouse children just as much as puppies! I started out by holding Cinder in my lap and allowing my grandson to pet her if he wanted. I made sure that they were both gentle. Soon, he was tossing around her toys and she was going after them. The first encounters were very brief – I gave Cinder lots of treats to ensure a positive association about children.

At K9 Manners & More, we like to use the “Two Hands” rule when puppies are meeting people. That means, the puppy can not have more than two hands on her at a time. This helps the children learn to take turns, and not overwhelm the puppy.

Q.At what age do you begin training a puppy?
A.The day I bring her home! Even if I don’t realize I’m “training,” the puppy is learning. I want to be certain she is learning the right things, such as what to chew and where to potty. On the website www.dogstardaily.com, there is a free book that you can download titled “Before You Get Your Puppy.” This is a fabulous resource for new puppy owners!

Every day, for a couple of minutes at a time, we work on her basic good manners – sit, down, come, stay off; even tricks. I reserve a portion of her kibble to use as reinforcement.

Cinder joined puppy kindergarten class once she was ten weeks old. Puppy kindergarten class is a great opportunity to gain socialization with other puppies, and strangers – especially children and men. There needs to be supervised off-leash socialization time, where the puppies can enjoy romping, but are not allowed to be bullied – or become a bully!

It has been a few years since I’ve raised a puppy. I had conveniently forgotten how busy they are – how much supervision they require – and how much they love to chew! Eventually, I will enjoy the result of the time investment in Cinder’s early training as she develops into a wonderful companion.

Mary Green
Mary Green, Certified Pet Dog Trainer, is the owner of K9 Manners & More in Broken Arrow. She is a consultant for the Tulsa SPCA, trainer for TheraPetics Service Dogs of OK, and is a monthly guest on the KOTV Noon News. www.k9-manners.com

Posted in All Past Articles, Fall 2010, General Interest, Pet Training | No Comments »

Training 411

posted April 15th, 2010 by Mary Green

By Mary Green

Q. How can I stop my dog from running the fence with the neighbor dog and barking her head off?

A.If she is doing this when you’re not home, it’s going to be pretty difficult to stop. Any time bad behavior happens when there’s no one around to intervene, that behavior is likely to continue. Somehow, the environment may need to change. Is it possible to keep the dog inside, crated or confined, in your absence? If not, you may need to modify the outside environment. Maybe put up a kennel run for confinement. My mom had a great setup where she installed a second fence several feet inside the perimeter fence. That way, the dogs were not so close to the neighbors and they were less likely to run the fence. Other options would be to devise interesting things for the dog to do while she is outside – a sandbox filled with interesting things to dig in, food delivery toys, or bones with filling. If she is doing this while you are home, you will have to go outside, and redirect her attention to you, or something else to do. If she persists, you may need to bring her in to curtail her barking. Try to figure out why the dog is barking in the first place. Does she have enough stimulation? Is she getting out of the yard, going for walks, going to doggie school, or having other activities? Living in the yard is pretty socially isolating for a dog, and they may bark for attention, or out of boredom. If she is particularly fond of the neighbor dog, and just wants to play, maybe you can arrange a play time for both dogs in your yard. Be sure that they are friendly! My friend Daniele has a perfect setup: a gate between her yard and the neighbor’s so that Lucy and her friend Patches can have regular playtime. Labrador retrievers Kanali & Sundance visit in the corner of their yards (their owners call that “coffee talk”) and then their owners get together for playtime. Being able to socialize with friendly dogs is a key part of a dog’s welfare.

Q. I have a nine-month old golden retriever that I would love to take on more walks, but she pulls terribly on the leash, and will bolt away after a squirrel or a bird. And, if she sees another dog she can practically jerk my arm out of the socket! Any suggestions?

A.I would first work on loose leash walking. There are some good videos online that show how to teach loose leash walking. Check out Dog Star Daily (www.dogstardaily.com) for some ideas. Pulling on leash is a hard habit to break! It is very rewarding to the dog to be able to pull his owner along for the ride, making it not so very enjoyable for the owner. Loose leash walking can be taught very effectively using a lure and reward method. Equipment can help you manage the dog as he learns how to walk politely with you. In our classes at K9 Manners & More, we have found that the Easy Walk No Pull Front Clip Harness works very well to inhibit pulling without putting pressure on the dog’s neck or nose. The leash attaches to the chest strap and guides the dog by gentle pressure on his shoulders. We also see good results with the Halti and the Gentle Leader head halters, where the leash attaches to a ring under the dog’s chin, and allows him to be guided without choking. Once your dog is more controllable, you will be better able to manage the distractions. If another dog is approaching you on a walk, you might want to cross the street. Encourage your dog to glance at that dog, but walk on by. If you’re observant, you can tell the very instant your dog spots a squirrel or bird. Her ears will pitch forward, and she’ll raise her head and stand tall. At the very first indication, say her name, and get her to turn toward you. If she won’t give you that much attention, just drop a tidbit on the ground and tell her to ‘find it.’ If her nose is on the ground, she’s not lunging toward the other animal. Teaching a ‘leave it’ skill is also very handy.

Q.Are dogs and cats natural enemies or can they get along?

A.They can get along and often do! Cats can often be overwhelmed by puppies or exuberant dogs. Be sure that initial meetings are well controlled to prevent any aggression from the dog. The cat needs to feel safe and secure, so she might be up on the back of a chair, or in a carrier if she is accustomed to one. Give each animal a really yummy treat when they meet each other. Another great tip is to rub each of the animals with a towel, then ‘introduce’ them by way of smelling the other towel.

Mary Green, Certified Pet Dog Trainer, is the owner of K9 Manners & More in Broken Arrow. She is a consultant for the Tulsa SPCA, trainer for TheraPetics Service Dogs of OK, and is a monthly guest on the KOTV Noon News. www.k9-manners.com

Posted in General Interest, Pet Training, Spring 2010 | No Comments »

Training 411

posted January 15th, 2010 by Mary Green

By Mary Green

Q. Sassy is a 6 year old dachshund, and is an only child. Any time someone comes to our house, she acts like a fool. She growls and barks at people, and charges after them. I’m afraid she is going to bite someone.

A. Isn’t it funny how sometimes a dog’s name becomes a behavior trait?
“Sassy” sounds just that! If she has acted this way all of her life, and has not bitten anyone, it’s unlikely that she will – under the normal circumstances you describe. She is certainly rehearsing some bad behavior, though. Generally speaking, the longer a behavior has been going on the harder it is to change. Dogs make aggressive overtures (like barking and charging) to let people know they are uncomfortable. These stay-away-from-me signals indicate “don’t pet me,” and Sassy may be saying “Intruder Alert!” Dogs even do this with people they have seen many times. While we may understand why they act this way, it’s not really acceptable for the family dog to threaten guests in your home. So, what might you do? Put Sassy in the crate when people come over. If she has not been crate trained, you may be able to confine her in a bedroom, or another out of the way place. You need to be sure that someone can’t accidentally open the door and let her out! Settle her down in there with a stuffed Kong toy, or a favorite chew toy.

• Always have Sassy on leash when people come over. Keep hold of the leash or attach it to your belt loop. Be sure that Sassy stays close to you, but please don’t pick her up and hold her face to face with people. She should stay on the floor.

• Have special treats for Sassy when company comes over. As soon as someone enters, you give Sassy a really special treat. Make it
something yummy that takes her a minute to eat. If she’s chewing and enjoying a treat, she isn’t barking. Don’t ask your guest to give her a treat, let it come from you. You’re just making a positive association between the person entering and her getting a great snack. In time, she will associate the people coming over with something she really loves, even if she’s not crazy about company.

• Be cautious of well intentioned friends and family that say “she’ll be fine,” or “all dogs like me!” Often that’s the person that pushes the dog’s buttons the wrong way, and gets bitten!

Q. Our boxer Sadie bolts away every time she can. If you’re standing at the door, she will practically knock you down to get out. If the kids leave the door open, she is gone in a flash. And, once she’s gone she is impossible to catch. How can we train her to stay at home?

A. I’m not sure if the real issue is training her to stay at home, or teaching her to come when she’s called. Not coming when called is one of the biggest behavior problems we see at K9 Manners & More. And, it’s a behavior problem that can cost the dog’s life. Getting enough exercise is critical to a dog’s wellbeing. Be sure that Sadie is going for leash walks in the neighborhood. A brisk walk is very beneficial for mental stimulation as well as physical exercise. Sadie can enjoy the sights and smells of the world that way. When she is confined to her own territory, she can become almost starved for new information! That can contribute to bolting.

Teach Sadie to get back and stay back away from the door. She can stay on a rug, in a hallway, or other area adjacent to the doorway, but needs to stay out of the entry way. One of our trainers taught a dog to go sit on the staircase when the doorbell rings! To start this, tell the dog to “get back” and toss a treat where you wish for her to go. As she goes for the treat, move into her space, tell her to sit, and reward her with another treat. Gradually practice until you are able to open the door without Sadie moving.

Teaching a dog to come when called, reliably, every time, takes lots of practice. It’s so important to be really generous with praise and rewards, and it needs to be something the dog really likes! You begin practicing inside your house, from room to room. You practice outside in your fenced yard. We use a technique we call “catch and release” where you reward the dog for coming to you, and then you release her to go about her business, and then call her again. Don’t practice in any off-leash area unless you can be 100 per cent certain Sadie will come to you.

If Sadie has bolted and is racing away from home – don’t chase her! Try instead to cheerfully call, “Let’s go for a car ride,” or “Sadie, do you want a cookie?” Be really silly and run the opposite direction when Sadie looks at you. Go to a neighboring yard and pretend to be very interested in their garden. When she gets curious about what you are doing, run home and let her chase you. Instead of chasing Sadie, let Sadie chase you! It is never a good idea to scold or punish your dog for running away, once you catch her. She needs to know it’s always safe to come running to mom or dad.

Posted in Pet Training, Winter 2010 | No Comments »