By Dolores Proubasta
Dogs bite. What amazes me is that they don’t bite more often. We meet a dog by thrusting a hand in his direction. “Let the dog sniff you first,” goes the popular wisdom. This while standing tall and square, staring the dog in the eye, and showing teeth. Hello! This may work with a new neighbor, but in dog language it amounts to: “Do you want a piece of me, big boy?” The introduction is just the first thing we do wrong. Before learning how to do things right from a dog’s perspective, let’s first understand that most bites are not dog attacks as they are often (mistakenly) labeled, but one or two chomps in response to a real or perceived provocation/threat. Truth be told, dogs exercise more self-restraint than the average bar-room brawler in delivering what is necessary to stop an action without the full measure of damage even a Pomeranian can inflict.
Injured, frightened, cornered or trapped, and chained dogs (all of which are common in rescue situations) should be approached with extreme caution. Nursing dames are especially sensitive to intrusions. Timid, not socialized, or abused dogs, may be “fear biters” (See “Bite Triggers”).
• A dog who seems reluctant to be touched should not feel cornered; leave him space to retreat. Approach slowly in a curve pattern, presenting your side, not your front. Talk in soothing tones all the while. Make yourself “smaller,” not by bending or squatting. which would put you at risk, but curving your body to avoid appearing tense. Do not look the dog in the eye, but avert and soften your eyes. Relax, blink often, and breathe calmly. Yawning is reassuring to a frightened dog, smiling is not. Tasty treats (Vienna sausages work miracles) gently tossed his way can help earn his confidence. If the dog reacts negatively, stop what you are doing but keep talking reassuringly. Allow the dog time to reconsider, and try again.
• Don’t wear a hat nor carry anything resembling a stick, unless it is a control stick and you know how to use it. In particular, senior citizens should refrain from using a walking stick to scare a dog away, it may in fact provoke aggression.
• Face bites are painful and often severe. When approaching unknown or distressed dogs, do so in a position that protects your head. If you must lift up a dog who has no reason to trust you or who may be frightened and in pain, improvise an emergency muzzle (See “Emergency Muzzle,” left). Once in place, hold tight on the neck loop and cradle the dog’s chest with that arm and his rear with the other to lift him. Always keep your head away from his because he may react to the touch due to a concealed injury or illness.
• If an unfriendly dog heads your way, turn sideways and withdraw from his territory at a constant slow pace. Do not offer your back. Do not scream nor yell commands, but softly say “It’s ok,” “Go home,” “Good dog” nonstop. Try to put a tree, a dumpster, or any other large obstacle between you and the dog. If you carry an umbrella, a coat, a purse, etc. do not wield it menacingly, because it may trigger an attack. If the dog charges, use whatever is at hand to put it between you and his jaws. If you go down, curl up and protect face, neck, and head. The quieter you can remain, the sooner the dog will withdraw.
• Pairs of dogs can be protective of each other. Don’t let your guard down despite wagging tails: Give both equal attention, do not come in between them, and do not initiate any play or action with one that the other may consider aggressive.
• It cannot be overemphasized: Never run toward, past, or away from a dog unless you know him and you are playing. The chase instinct will be triggered and the average fat old dog can reach 19 mph (Greyhounds are clocked at 42 mph) at full speed versus a puny 12 mph conditioned human runner. Even Olympian Usain Bolt, at 23 mph, would have his shorts ripped by the average mutt.
• Topping high-risk situations is breaking up a dog fight. Hosing down and voice commands seldom stop dogs in the heat of battle. Do not hit them as this will infuriate them further. Do not step in between or use your arms unless you are wearing Kevlar gloves and sleeves. Quickly find a barrier to wedge between the dog’s faces, e.g., a large piece of plywood, an open parasol, a folded lawn chair or card table, a dog mattress, a large trash can lid, etc., that will block both their sight and teeth from each other. (With smaller breeds, a parka, blanket, or quilt is enough to separate the dogs and also bundle and scoop up one of them to safety.)
• It cannot be overemphasized: Never run toward, past, or away from a dog unless you know him and you are playing. The chase instinct will be triggered and the average fat old dog can reach 19 mph (Greyhounds are clocked at 42 mph) at full speed versus a puny 12 mph conditioned human runner. Even Olympian Usain Bolt, at 23 mph, would have his shorts ripped by the average mutt.
• Topping high-risk situations is breaking up a dog fight. Hosing down and voice commands seldom stop dogs in the heat of battle. Do not hit them as this will infuriate them further. Do not step in between or use your arms unless you are wearing Kevlar gloves and sleeves. Quickly find a barrier to wedge between the dog’s faces, e.g., a large piece of plywood, an open parasol, a folded lawn chair or card table, a dog mattress, a large trash can lid, etc., that will block both their sight and teeth from each other. (With smaller breeds, a parka, blanket, or quilt is enough to separate the dogs and also bundle and scoop up one of them to safety.)
Recognizing danger A discussion about bite avoidance may leave the reader with the impression that human-canine relations are a time-bomb. Nothing’s farther from the truth. When there is mutual respect and trust between dogs and adult people it is perfectly safe to engage in activities one would be wise to avoid with an unfamiliar dog. However, Mark Twain’s dictum that the principal difference between a dog and a man is that “If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you,” has its limits. Even a family pet can get tired of rough-housing, be too possessive about a chew toy, feel threatened by a visitor, etc. and warn us that his mood is changing.
Although most dog bites are reported as “unprovoked,” in fact this is inconsistent with canine behavior. “Dogs are not unpredictable,” says Melissa Chan, animal behavior and training coordinator at the Houston SPCA. “They communicate in a language comprised largely of visual clues and offer many warning signs before even bristling, growling, and baring teeth.” Hard faces. More alarming than the cautionary baring of teeth is the agonistic pucker: the pursing of lips that precedes a bite. Other warnings are the tensing of facial muscles, such as a closed mouth, tension ridges on muzzle; ears back; eyes staring directly into yours, or else “whale eyes” (showing the white) looking at you but with the head turned in a different direction; brow tense or furrowed. Tongue flicks may also indicate high stress. All these are signs that you should slowly put some distance between you and the dog. Tense bodies. Do not approach a dog with tensed up muscles, whether standing straight or leaning forward. Hind legs tucked while the front of the body is leaning right or left, as if ready to run, are bad signs. If the dog is holding his breath, don’t hold yours (always breathe calmly), but slowly start withdrawing. Other than the dog’s own body language, other aspects to be considered are:
Bite Triggers Injured, frightened, cornered, chained, trapped, or nursing dogs are likely to bite. Threatening behavior – some examples:
• Bending over a dog, or rousing him from his sleep
• Reaching to touch a dog’s head (when he doesn’t want to be touched)
• Staring into a dog’s eyes (worse, at eye level, like toddlers do)
• Trying to touch or remove a bone, a toy, a bowl of food or anything the dog wants
• Screaming near the dog’s face or producing other startling noises in his proximity
• Running toward, past, or away from a dog
• Walking too close to a dog on leash
• Entering a protective dog’s territory
• Being afraid in the presence of a dog
• Sticking a hand or finger (especially children) inside a dog’s enclosure
• Making threatening gestures, like raising a fist or wielding a stick
• Causing pain, injury, or subjugation to a dog
• Overexcitement during play can cause a friendly dog to nip or bite as he would a playmate. Although no aggression or warning is intended, children and older people with delicate skins can suffer lacerations.
Children at Risk The benefits of a child growing up with a dog far surpass the risks if adults provide a safe environment for both. Here is how:
• Infants and toddlers should never be unsupervised when there is a dog present, because face, head, and neck injuries may be life threatening. Even the trusted family pet may be startled by a noise, annoyed by the baby touching his toy, etc.
• Children between the ages of 5 and 12 are at greater risk of being bitten. Their hyperactivity, unpredictability, and noisiness are destabilizing to all animals (including people). Most dog-to-child bites are provoked by the child’s behavior. Therefore, impress on your children the correct behavior to observe with dogs and all pets:
1. Supervise children’s ages 0-12 whenever there is a dog present.
2. Teach children to treat dogs with kindness and respect, without instilling undue fear.
3. Issue absolute rules: “Don’t chase, don’t grab, don’t stare, don’t hit, don’t yell, don’t run,” etc. and post a written list on the refrigerator or another central place.
4. Firmly and consistently correct any departure from safe behavior.
• Contact the school principal requesting a dog bite prevention lecture by a competent professional (Chart 4) be included in the calendar year. In the final analysis, when dog bites child (or vice versa), both are victims and the only ones to blame are the adults who failed to prevent it.
Dog breeds Theories as to which breeds are less likely to mix well in a family setting, especially with children (see “Children at Risk,” p. 21), differ. But because the popularity of breeds, and so their number, fluctuates and may nearly vanish, comparative breed specific bite statistics are unreliable. Often, the person reporting a bite will identify the dog as “pit bull” (there is no such breed) when in reality it may be a deep-in-chest, cheeky faced crossbreed, an American Bulldog, or other. People commonly identify dogs of mixed ancestry as purebreds. All this produces unreliable data that gives a false sense of security at best. The propensity to bite actually results from interacting factors such as heredity, socialization, training, and mental/physical health. The difference between pit bull types, Akitas, Huskies, or other powerful dogs, and breeds who are, in fact, more likely to bite (like Cocker Spaniels and Chihuahuas among others) is in the consequences, which increase in severity and mortality proportionally to the size and strength of the dog. Interestingly, the ban on certain breeds (e.g., pit-bull types in the United Kingdom in the 1990s), invariably fails to lower the number of dog bites, which keeps rising. This is one of the many arguments backing up the positions of The American Veterinary Medical Association, the American Kennel Club, the ASPCA, HSUS and others, all of which reject breed discrimination in favor of (1) public education (See “Education is Prevention,” left) and (2) responsible pet ownership to curb dog bite incidents (see “Education is Prevention,” left). Which brings us to the “people
factor.”
It’s not the dog’s fault At the root of most bites is an irresponsible owner who failed to: (1) sterilize; (2) socialize and train; and (3) contain the dog. Puppy-mill breeders give no consideration to temperament or socialization of their “stock,” and backyard breeders are, by definition, irresponsible owners. If the dog is a stray, it is because he was abandoned, neglected, or unrestrained. Behind every dog bite, there is a person to blame.
• Sterilization is the first step toward responsible pet ownership. Neutered dogs are three times less likely to bite. People who cannot afford veterinary services for their pets should clearly not have them, but lack of money is no excuse. Anyone receiving assistance from the Department of Human Services can apply with the caseworker to get free spay and neuter surgeries, rabies and other vaccines through the Tulsa County Veterinary Medical Association.
• A growing number of people, many of them youngsters, sad to say, instigate their dogs to be aggressive. Dog bites have increased disproportionate to the number of dogs owned (see “USA Facts,” above). Most dog bites are not reported because the gravity of the injury doesn’t warrant it (see “When Bites Occur,” right). Veterinarians, vet technicians, animal rescuers and shelter personnel among others are bitten on a regular basis. But the rare attack by a Presa Canario or a Rottweiler can cause severe injuries and sensational headlines, thus unfairly smearing the reputation of the whole breed. More is the pity, when a bad reputation attracts irresponsible owners and breeders.
• Animal shelters and humane societies get their share of visitors who scope the runs for “mean” dogs — dogs who never bit anyone before, but will be goaded into becoming aggressive or die in the process. Although anyone suspected of wanting a dog for the wrong reasons is refused adoption, some manage to fake good intentions and, tragically, good dogs end up with bad people.
• Victims themselves are often the cause for being bitten because, intentionally or not, they scared or challenged the dog. Fear of dogs may be, in fact, one of the chief causes why city dwellers unaccustomed to animals, and people from cultures which shrink from dogs are often bit. People afraid of dogs should simply avoid them. When visiting a home with pets, ask the owner to confine the dog. Don’t let anyone persuade you to touch the dog to get over your fear, because your fear is contagious to the dog, and that can be dangerous. Also, avoid areas where dogs may be running loose. If despite all precautions you are confronted by a dog, remain calm. Don’t look at the dog, don’t stiffen up, don’t scream or ask for help, but slowly turn your side (not your back) to him, and start backing off. Try to breathe calmly.
• When the victim is a child, invariably it’s the negligence of parents, guardians, dog owners, or any other adult who should have prevented the situation. People, in short, expect more discernment and self-control from dogs than from their own kind. The vast majority of dogs live up to our unreasonable expectations, but those who can’t often pay for relatively small injuries with their lives. Dogs are still and forever man’s best friend. For their sake and ours, let’s be reasonable and careful.
USA Facts More than 4.7 million people (2% of the population) are bitten each year; more dog bites go unreported 77% of biting dogs belong to a relative or friend of the victim. Only 10% of bites are inflicted by dogs unknown to the victim
50% of the bites occur on the dog owner’s property Intact (not neutered) male dogs represent 70-76% of all reported dog bite incidents. There is a 1-in-50 chance of being bitten during a 12-month period 1-in-6 bites requires medical attention 5% of all ER cases are bites Maulings caused 23 deaths in 2008; 16 were children. There are nearly 80 million owned dogs 39% of the households own at least one dog Dog bite injuries account for more than 1/3 of all liability claims against homeowners insurance.
Data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, American Veterinary Medical Association, American Medical Association, Insurance Information Institute.
Education is Prevention Bite prevention is a matter of continued education from kindergarten to retirement community. Qualified professionals to lead public education efforts are veterinarians, National Animal Control Association certified animal control officers, SPCA, HSUS or other humane society/animal shelter/rescue group education specialists, and American College of Veterinary Behaviorists graduates.
• Children are the main target group. School lectures, assembly programs, games, field trips to shelters including lecture by an animal behaviorist, all can teach children safe behavior.
• Parents must be reminded of their responsibility to (1) supervise their children and (2) insist on safe behavior. Educational materials can be distributed with school announcements, doctor’s wellness reports, veterinary invoices, utility bills, etc.
• People who spend time outdoors —bicyclists, joggers, meter readers, mail carriers, real estate agents, and delivery personnel among others— or visit other people’s homes — such as social workers, home care providers, or pet sitters — need specific information distributed by employers, clubs, and associations on how to handle animal-related situations they are likely to encounter.
• Senior citizens can benefit from dog bite prevention lectures and programs through church groups, recreational centers, travel groups, shopping malls, health care professionals, and others.
• Shelters and other animal adoption centers should provide guidance to those seeking to obtain a dog, steering them away from bad matches. Ideally, all people who decide to adopt a dog should attend a realistic bite-prevention film before signing on the dotted line.
• Pet stores, groomers, dog shows, trainers … all should distribute dog-bite prevention literature.
• The media should offer regular bite-prevention tips through interviews with experts, printed lists of do’s and don’ts that parents can attach to the fridge, sponsorship of pet-ownership education events, etc.
• Community standards for responsible ownership should be established by every local government. Dogs owners should be informed of the ordinances and rules enforced, the main obstacle, however, is that the least likely to comply are dog owners with minimal attachment to their pets, precisely those responsible
for a majority of dog-bite incidents.
By Marilyn King
ARF was founded 20 years ago when a group of friends began working together to rescue animals from area shelters. The group, loosely associated at first, obtained non-profit organization status and has become more organized and efficient with the passing years. Currently, the primary purpose of ARF is to save as many animals from kill shelters within the Tulsa and surrounding area as they possibly can. In 2008, ARF found homes for more than 340 animals and hopes to place 400-500 animals in loving homes in 2009.
In a lineup that included a standard poodle, a Scottish terrier, a puli, a Brussels griffon, a giant schnauzer and a Scottish deerhound, this win marked the first time a Sussex spaniel has won the coveted title of best of breed at Westminster. However, another first marks the emotional achievement of the night. All formal names and titles aside, the well-loved, sleep-in-the-bed spaniel, affectionately known as Stump, came out of retirement to become the top show dog in the nation. Born on December 1 of 1999, at 10 years of age Stump officially became the oldest dog to wear the coveted Westminster crown.
My days with Maggie have left me with a special fondness for senior rescue dogs and how much they still have to offer as companions. In our home we currently enjoy the company of the aforementioned Bonnie and sweet Ellie, another Dalmatian that is now likely more than 15 years old. Ellie has been with us for about three years after being found stray in west Tulsa. Both girls are welcome additions to the family.
Written at age 13 by Lauren Guterman, now 14, a student at Riverfield Elementary School.
